Large Scale Central

Bachmann Spectrum 2-6-0 not running

Perhaps I can provide a little clarity on the Bachmann Sprectrum 2-6-0s.

The older ones had plastic gears. The current ones have metal gears. The current ones are completely redesigned and are a much more rugged locomotives. The parts for the older models were made when the older models were manufactured and the parts for the current models were made when they were manufactured. So if you get parts for the new locomotive they will have metal gears while parts for the older ones will have the older plastic gears.

Hope that helps

Stan

https://youtu.be/qkm3GWYS3qs

timmyd DeHan said:

To be on the safe side I also ordered 3 of the axle and gears from NWSL. TOC recommended them. Pete, are saying that these will not work?

Timmy, the old axles, which I assume you have as you have split gears (and which look like the photo I posted of the gearbox,) are knurled (small ridges or grooves on the surface) and will accept the NWSL 25T gear -I have done that once. Just make sure you order the right gear - the one NWSL claims is correct has too many teeth. (We’ve been using the “2226-6 | Fn3 Bachmann 2-8-0 axle gear 25T”.) Read the Bachmann or similar forum thread for enlightenment. (P.S. I do not know iof the NWSL gear labelled dfor the 2-6-0 will fit. We use the 25T 2-8-0 gear.)

The new axles you bought from Bachmann are different, which is probably why they gave you a whole axle, not just a gear. These new ones are mounted on a flat part of the axle to stop them spinning (“D” shaped.) Either solution will work - however, if Stan is correct (and I would query why the new ones are different if they were all produced at the same time,) the new style axles are old type plastic and will split. Whether they will continue to make the axle rotate when split is not known!

The parts I ordered from Bachmann are linked in my post earlier in this thread.

The parts TOC stated I needed from NWSL are 2223-6. Here is what he said:

2223-6 is the 24 tooth axle gear for the 4-4-0 and 2-6-0. Arguments abound on this, as all but early units use the 2226-6 of 25 teeth.

Raoul (founder) said the 25 tooth is too tight a mesh, hence the 24 tooth.

To continue this subject, at this point is needless, as Dave Goodson is going to do the repairs/replacement of the axle/gears.

Dave is sure to be very able to do the job, and when done, “Might” if asked nicely, give a description of what/where/ and type of gear axle is involved in this story…unless provoked by well meaning “Know-It-Alls’” like me and others.!!(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)

So…give it a rest, and we all may actually learn something.

Fred Mills

Raoul (founder) said the 25 tooth is too tight a mesh, hence the 24 tooth.

The 25 tooth gear that we fitted wasn’t an arbitrary decision - Kevin and I (and others) counted the teeth on our broken gears before ordering. My 2-6-0 is running very smoothly with the 25 tooth gear.

I would be interested to hear how many teeth are on the new type that you have on order from Bachmann. However, as Fred points out, Dave is The Man and if he’s happy with the 24 tooth gears, then I’m sure you will be too.

Fred, no idea why you want to play forum cop, people are trying to get this clear, what is the harm?

Anyway, TOC has been paged…

Greg

Ah, yes. So, the question is, how many of you work with gearing and optimization thereof?

I did…BBT stuff…seen it, done it.

Raoul Martin, founder of NWSL…maybe he did it too, eh?

If he says a smaller (slightly) gear, that’s what I use. Especially with his experience.

Of course, news folks have far more knowledge than any of us.

Oh, and Bachmann has it right?

Nominal final ratio for steam? Diesel? Anyone?

1:30, 1:15, of course, varied slightly one way or the other for driver diameters and tooth count.

Have any idea what happens if you put diesel gearing in a steam engine?

AH! a 63SMPH K-27!

But I digress.

Unless I had all the gearing for both plastic and brass gutted engines to compare, I don’t think I would arbitrarily drop a late production brass axle gear into an early box.

I have been doing the NWSL specified gear in 4-4-0’s and 2-6-0’s for years…and years. I think I trust original NWSL to get the gearing correct far more than the PRC.

I finally received the replacement gears both from Bachmann and NWSL.

Bachmann:

Bachmann gears

NWSL:

NWSL

Not knowing how long this stay at home social distancing thing is going to last. I have a feeling it will be fore a while longer. So, I searched Youtube and actually found a video that goes through how to change the drive gear. Thought I would give it a try today. I was able to follow the video and got to the drive gear. Yup, it was split in half.

As I purchased 3 of the Bachmann replacement gears and also 3 from NWSL I tried to get the NWSL gear on to the axle but for the life of me can’t figure out how to get it on. The hole in the gear is much smaller than the axle

So, I used one of the replacement gear plus axle I got from Bachmann.

I was able to replace the gear and re-assemble the loco. However, I place it on the track, gave it some juice and nothing… Don’t know what I might have done. Perhaps I dislodged a wire or something. Really disappointed as I was pretty excited that I successfully got the broken gear out and replaced with the new one.

I know this might sound dumb but check that your stuff is plugged in or turn to on… it happens.

When you placed the loco on the track was the tender connected to the loco ? If so then the problem might be that you have replaced the driving axles/wheels wrong side round (reinstalled upside down, so to speak). so the pick ups in the loco and tender are mismatched causing a short circuit. Very easily done when doing repair work like this with this loco as you will have had the axles completely out. Don’t ask me how I know. The tender wheels pick up current from the track to feed to the motor as do the driving wheels. You might get a burning smell if you try to increase the power or do not shut off.

If not the above it will just be a matter of the task of systematically checking through from the motor onwards to make sure all the wires are connected and everything is the right way around. Take a look too at the little “circuit board” that should be mounted on the wired end of the motor, if a previous owner has not removed it. This is the electrical “noise” suppressor. You will see 2 small black cylinders on there, they are capacitors. These have a habit of burning out. If they are distorted/discoloured in any way they have probably blown and that then that is a probable cause. I was advised on a forum a long time ago to get rid of them and replace when I suffered a “dead loco” issue.

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/LS4-4-0DCWIRING.pdf Although this wiring schematic is for the 4-4-0 “American” it should be ok for your 2-6-0. This is a very closely related product to the one you have. The “2-6-0 Mogul” wiring schematic listed on the Bachmann site is for the small “mining mogul” a very different product to yours. I hope this aids you (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)

Jason V. said:

I know this might sound dumb but check that your stuff is plugged in or turn to on… it happens.

Yup… power is plugged in and turned on.

Ok… I figured it out! My mistake. All is working and I replaced the broken gear myself with the Bachmann replacement gear and axel. Pretty proud of myself (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

With that said, I also have the NWSL gears that I purchased for the same project on my other 3 Bachmann 2-6-0 that also have the split gear. However, for the life of me I can’t figure out how to get the gears on the axel. I can only get them on this far. What’s the trick?

If the NWSL gear is metal. You can Heat it to expand and then let it cool to shrink.

Jason

Jason V. said:

If the NWSL gear is metal. You can Heat it to expand and then let it cool to shrink.

Jason

It’s not metal.

A couple ideas come to mind and have worked for me over the years for pushing gears and such on to shafts. All utilize small appropriately sized sockets from a ratchet set. I like method TWO the best, but all work with a little common sense and care. I’ve use an arbor press to change bearings/gears/spacers and similar ilk for years. Sometimes sockets work other times plate(s) with hole in the middle supported with spacer blocks, simply depends on what you have in hand.

Place the gear on-top of the right diameter socket, insert the axle and push/tap the axle threw the gear.

  1. Place a shallow or deep socket (depends on the need) on the work bench, with a small hammer tap the shaft down onto serrated shaft area.

  2. Small Arbor press from Harbor Freight Tools or other sources. Again using a socket(s).

  3. Benchtop vice, again utilizing small sockets.

Michael

I also have the NWSL gears that I purchased for the same project on my other 3 Bachmann 2-6-0 that also have the split gear. However, for the life of me I can’t figure out how to get the gears on the axel. I can only get them on this far. What’s the trick?

Timmy, that’s not the right gear for that axle. Maybe NWSL sent you the wrong one? Measure the axle diameter over the smooth bit next to the ridges and email them. Maybe even send them the original split gear?

You have a “shouldered” axle which widens where the valve gear slides on. I am assuming that the gear is clearly not going to slide any further past the shoulder?

The NWSL gear is delrin, a type of hard plastic. The “trick” is going to be drilling it out to the right size. For this you really need a vertical drill press. (I bought one for drilling maple cabinet drawer fronts at Home Depot for $90. Many years ago - your mileage may vary.) Or find a friend with a machine shop - a lathe is the proper tool for this job.

If you have a micrometer it will be easy to measure the shaft diameter, but it is probably metric and something like 4mm. Your local Ace hardware will sell you a Xmm drill, or you can buy one online. (If you don’t have a micrometer, now would be a good time to buy one!)

In any case, the trick is to drill a test piece - not the actual gear. Find a drill bit that you think will work and use it to drill a hole in something like a hardwood strip or piece of plastic. Then test that the piece is a tight fit on the axle all the way up to the ridges. Keep trying until it is a close fit. Don’t use an oversize drill thinking the ridges will hold it - if you can’t find something exact, then drill it slightly small and see trick 2.

The gear will have to be held very securely - I use soft wood on either side in a vise or clamp and let the wood grip the gear teeth. You will have to drill very slowly and carefully - don’t press down too hard. It’s quite difficult to drill out a hole in plastic that is almost the right size in the first place, so be careful and make sure the gear is centered under the drill. (To help center it, you can load a smaller drill that fits the existing hole and, with the drill off, press it into the gear while you tighten the clamp to hold it in place.).

If you have drilled out your gear and it is still a bit too tight, then put a round file smaller than the hole in the drill (trick 2) and use it to carefully file (ream) the hole slightly larger. [A proper size drill is a better option! A reamer is the proper tool for opening a hole slightly, but I don’t have one and I doubt you could find one.]

What you are aiming for is a good fit on the smooth shaft and for the gear not to wobble too much when you spin the axle in your fingers. Then you can gently tap the axle into the gear - Michael’s suggestion of small sockets to support the gear while you tap is a good one. I use the vise and put the axle loosely in the jaws so I can tap it through the gear.

Yup… I just realized NWSL sent me the wrong gears.

I ordered 2223-6 which it clearly shows on my sales receipt. But they sent me 2236-6 which are way to big. I’ve sent NWSL an email asking them to send the correct gears.

timmyd DeHan said:

Yup… I just realized NWSL sent me the wrong gears.

I ordered 2223-6 which it clearly shows on my sales receipt. But they sent me 2236-6 which are way to big. I’ve sent NWSL an email asking them to send the correct gears.

In that case, forget everything I wrote after the first paragraph (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)That gear won’t fit even if you do get it on the axle.

When I use a vise and socket to install a gear on an axle, I also place a thick steel washer at the gear so as to push the whole gear evenly as a socket may be offside a little and 'bend/misshape" the gear.