Did two of them years ago on MyLargeScale but now I need to make a revised one up with all of the changes we made. I need to replace all of the 2 X 6 board that are above ground with new deck re-cyc plastic 2 X 6’s.
I have about 120 foot ( Most in 16 foot lin.) piled up to start with for now.
Darn layout over the years just got to large for us to keep up with. Boy… was we dumb.
Greg Elmassian said:
Very nice Noel!
Did you publish a track plan at any time? Would love to coordinate track plan with the photos!
Greg
Guess you forgot the “S” which you promoted as I could not see it . However I embedded it with the “S” for pap so we can all see it.
Noel Wilson said:
Did two of them years ago on MyLargeScale but now I need to make a revised one up with all of the changes we made. I need to replace all of the 2 X 6 board that are above ground with new deck re-cyc plastic 2 X 6’s. I have about 120 foot ( Most in 16 foot lin.) piled up to start with for now. Darn layout over the years just got to large for us to keep up with. Boy… was we dumb.
Nice work Pap!
" Rooster " said:
Greg Elmassian said:
Very nice Noel!
Did you publish a track plan at any time? Would love to coordinate track plan with the photos!
Greg
Guess you forgot the “S” which you promoted as I could not see it . However I embedded it with the “S” for pap so we can all see it.
Ok what this “S” thing? Is it something I forgot on the video link? I was able to see the video ok when I post it. Noel
Rooster:
Noel:
When Bob updated this site to allow “secure access” with https:// at the address, a new issue was introduced… if you post a picture and view with http:// (not https://) then YOU can see the pictures, but the rest of us that log in securely (https://) don’t.
To me, it’s not a big deal, and sometimes someone comes in and reposts the pictures with https:// so everyone can see them regardless.
Overall:
Ideally, Bob would require https:// to log into the site and then this problem would probably go away, or could be fixed, but it does not happen enough that I think it’s worth making a big deal of.
Greg
oh, p.s., Shut up Rooster
Greg Elmassian said:
Rooster:
- I did not ask about the video, I asked if Noel has published a track plan.
- When pictures are posted as http:// instead of https:// I just reload the page without the “s” and I see them. No need to keep telling people about the web site issue, it probably will never get fixed.
Noel:
When Bob updated this site to allow “secure access” with https:// at the address, a new issue was introduced… if you post a picture and view with http:// (not https://) then YOU can see the pictures, but the rest of us that log in securely (https://) don’t.
To me, it’s not a big deal, and sometimes someone comes in and reposts the pictures with https:// so everyone can see them regardless.
Overall:
Ideally, Bob would require https:// to log into the site and then this problem would probably go away, or could be fixed, but it does not happen enough that I think it’s worth making a big deal of.
Greg
oh, p.s., Shut up Rooster
…
Ok thanks for the information… I didn’t know this… I’ll start when copying a link from you-tube to paste it, will add the “S” on end of Http…
Repairing another problem that is at Backers Acers Yard. We have this darn “S” Curve to get rid of. Taking this Aristo SW out and install a Nbr 6 long switch. It looks bad withlong trains coming out of the yard.
A better view of the area that leads to the main line.
.
This is the Nbr 6 long Track Switch ( I think its a USA Switch) that took me all day just to rebuilding the points and adding a LGB sw.motor w/ routing frog switch added.
Had to make the point little wider that what it came with to be able to use the LGB Sw motor for its throw.
Tomorrow I will cut it in.
.
Noel, I would be curious of the fixes you had to apply. The USAT switches have a nice looking frog, but I have heard a few things about them, mostly on the electric switch motor and the power routing.
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Noel, I would be curious of the fixes you had to apply. The USAT switches have a nice looking frog, but I have heard a few things about them, mostly on the electric switch motor and the power routing.
Greg
Greg . We dump the points micro sw. It’s crappy set up… that only operates off and on to power to the frog… To us… it a headache. We add a LGB power routing unit that has two assessor switches for the points and frog power routing. Goes on end of a LGB Sw. motor… This will add track power to the frog in direction points are set. With the second Routing Sw. we usually use it to operate a ground Signal.
Other thing is the LGB motors has a short tie bar movement. By drill and tap a new screw hole in the Sw. tie bar and move one point out a little, its makes the point a little wider. Our LGB Sw motor work fine with a little adjustment. Just have to check for good clearance for wheel flanges. Like Bachmann’s has some wide ones…
Photos to follow.
Original small screw hole showing and now re-drilled so one points moved out a little.
Showing the LGB routing unit added to the LGB Sw. motor, and where the other 10 R. ( Aristo ) is coming out.
We mounter this on a metal plate, now easy to adj. or remover as one pc.
Bottom side of plate to show frog wiring back to LGB routing unit. No more Mirco Sw problems. Very easy fix.
A good idea if doing this, you should power up tracks on both side of your tracks Sw. Don’t depend on using your Sw as a thru long distance track power supply. The small Gage wire as jumper on the Sw has to be small enough to move freely and can’t take a lot of amperage to power up any added distance with out tied into your power buss sys.
Guess a R.R.never really get finish All things to do. I have two more long Switches to work on yet and maybe use in another area for longer trains.
Thanks Noel, yes many people have complained that the stock USAT power routing stinks, just like the Aristo microswitch on the #6.
Interesting about the throw distance on the LGB SW not enough for that switch.
I do the same as you, I put hard jumpers “around” each switch so there is no power routing through the points to the stub rails, in my case that is often a 10 amp load… I jumper with 14 gauge solid wire.
Greg
Greg. We are using Nbr 12 sold wire ( Romax 12-2WG ) on our 7 buss blocks do to the distance of each. As long as we keep the block runs under 100’ that good for 20 amps. Ya …14-2WG is still good for 15 amps that most power supply are no much over 10 amps.
Well. today i got the USA Nbr 6 Switch installed. No more “S” track on long trains going out of Bakers Acres Yard.
But I did come across a problem that I forgot about do to we are track powered.
When coming into Backers Acres yard, we have a Aristo 10-R Track Switch that can be set Auto or manual for routing. But, at the other end we now installed a USA long Switch that has to have the points set for the fog. That so as not to be a short Cir. We use to have just another Aristo 10-R Switch with no problem coming out on the back side with spring load points and plastic or metal frog insulated. Now we have a little further to walk with our trains going around a storage shed to make sure its aligned.
This is what this area look like for now. The yard is behind this photo.
Showing on left side is Turntable and Eng. storage tracks, run around tracks, center tracks are the caboose tracks and right side is from yard to main line.
We can get 7 Eng. on the Turntable/Eng. Storage tracks and about plus or minus of 40 some rolling stock in the yard.
We still have to ring out the Yard area yet with our old ph. Mag. hand crank.
We still have a lot of Aristo and USA tracks that has the old screw joiner on them. Kind of fun finding bad joints that either show open or bad joint that for a few min. will smoke and then gets hard to crank the Mag. Easy way to find bad joint that train can runs slow in an area or block. If you do this like we do every year or so, make sure not to have any Sig. or track Switches involved in the line test. Ours puts out 20 A. @1 volt. or can switch to to 90 v. @ 500MA that don’t much on that setting that only show open or short cir.
We keep working on our layout, we may get more than just a track cleaning train running yet this year. LoL (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
I have several independently insulated blocks to facilitate finding problems, and also avoid the “clock short” issue.
Since DCC is constant voltage, I then put my heavy load at the “far end” from the feeder (and since the blocks are separate, there is only one path for the electrons to flow)
Interestingly, since DCC is square wave AC, a bad joint usually “sings” with a high pitch buzzing.
If that does not locate it, then I use a voltmeter to see how far away the voltage drops, like every 6 feet or so. The final location is using a voltmeter on the millivolt scale on each side of a joiner… detect any significant voltage and it shows the joint has resistance.
Greg
Keep up the good work Pap!
(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
To show to our local Trains group about were we are on the R.R.
Finished up minor work on tracks and then pulled out of Eng. House, a Pacific and a Atlantic to make up a short passenger trains for a test…
We use the Steam Eng’s that for us can show us any bad or uneven tracks.
Running thru Pine Tree Jct.
Heading to Butt Head Cove
Backing out our Atlantic Eng. for next run.
Tomorrow, hope to start repairs and cleaning up building for the layout.
Slowly getting there.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
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