The model is a Hubley 1:20 scale metal kit.
Model Ts were 10ft from axle hub to axle hub
Time for an update! I made the motor mount from styrene scraps, and shaped a brass strip to hold the motor in place. I used some tiny screws (with mismatched heads) from my box of “junk”. Here are top and bottom views of the motor installed in the vehicle:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6832/IMG_6832.jpg)
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6834/IMG_6834.jpg)
Next I added the deck, made from .040" thick styrene sheet, with some fake cross members attached on the underside:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6848/IMG_6848.jpg)
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6855/IMG_6855.jpg)
I decided to make this into a small railbus. The design combines some features from a couple different real-life vehicles. The open cab was inspired by a 1920 Model TT bus. The body is wide and covers the rear wheels, with sheet metal sides, slightly curved inward along the bottom. This was inspired by a Model T railbus used on the Tennessee, Kentucky & Northern. I started building the rear half of the body out of styrene strips and sheet:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6863c/IMG_6863c.jpg)
I also added a sort of “flange” to the hood, and cut a piece for the firewall. The firewall fits over the flange on the rear of the hood. The hood will be permanently attached to the chassis, and the rest of the body will be removable.
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6869/IMG_6869.jpg)
Here’s a shot of the components temporarily in place on the chassis:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6873/IMG_6873.jpg)
Next I added the side panels. I curved each panel by placing it on the extruded aluminum track of a sliding door, and pressed against it with a dowel. After those were attached, I started building up the front seat, floorboards, dashboard, windshield frame, and side window frames:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6899/IMG_6899.jpg)
Here’s how it looks so far. I put in the upper side panel on the driver’s side, but haven’t done the other side yet. At this point I’m trying to decide if I like the way it looks with the combined features (wide body/open cab). What do you think?
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6908c/IMG_6908c.jpg)
Ray,
you have excelled yourself. I cannot see information on the motor, but what is the brass extension on the drive side - planetary stepdown gearbox? flywheel?
Nice! How are you powering it?
The motor has a 115:1 gear box. It’s a 6v motor, I’ll be running it on a 7.4v battery pack.
That ought to work just fine since yours should be a lot lighter weight. I had 14.4v pack in mine originally, but it ran a bit too fast, so I substituted a 12v pack(8 rechargeable AA Batts in a case) . Slowed it down some, but the RailTruck is a heavy beast for it’s size.
Nice work so far Ray.
It looks fantastic!
I never cared for Bachmann’s rail-truck, don’t know why exactly. I’d run this guy all day.
What they said!!! Incredible, so far!
-Kevin.
Looks extremely good, Ray.
I just posted a video to YouTube, showing the first test run of the railbus. I wanted to make sure everything worked before getting too far into the build. It runs very smoothly and quietly. Top speed isn’t very fast but is acceptable, and it’s probably pretty accurate for a heavily-loaded Model T.
I’ll post some more details of the build soon.
Nice - I really like that you can see the drive shaft moving in some of the low angle shots. if you have room you might glob on some simulated U-Joints to catch the eye.
Sweet. Runs very smooth.
Here’s the latest update… I finished the side panels on the cab, the ones with the curved opening. I had to redo the first one four times before I got it to come out right. Anyway, then I installed the trim and bracing on the inside. The trim around the curved part was cut from sheet styrene. The other parts are from strips:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6944/IMG_6944.jpg)
This is how the body looks so far. I beefed up the windshield frame, finished the side and rear window frames, added interior bracing, and some exterior trim:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6939/IMG_6939.jpg)
The firewall and windshield frame are now thicker and more detailed:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6942/IMG_6942.jpg)
Inside the firewall/floorboard area, I created a slot-like structure which will be used to hold the steering column:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6959/IMG_6959.jpg)
The rear of the body, with the new window frames and trim. I still have to make hinges and handles for the rear door:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6947/IMG_6947.jpg)
The steering column had to be modified due to the fact that the cab must be removable. I used brass tube to replace the kit’s steering column, bending it at an angle. The upright portion will be glued into the firewall, leaving only the angled portion visible. You might wonder why a railcar needs a steering wheel at all. It doesn’t, however the steering wheels were often kept in place and used as brake wheels.)
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6961c/IMG_6961c.jpg)
I added throttle and spark levers, made from thin brass rod:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6963/IMG_6963.jpg)
Here’s a shot of the underside of the body, showing the attachment points. Small screws will go into these points from the underside of the chassis, to hold the body in place. Also, to the left of center you can see where I cut away some of the partion so that the space under the front seat can be used to fit the battery:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6954/IMG_6954.jpg)
This is the chassis deck, with mounts for the r/c receiver. There are two sets of holes in the mounts because I needed to move the receiver forward from where I had originally placed it. I also put up a styrene “fence” around the electronics area to prevent the wires from getting pinched between the body and the chassis. The large opening is for wiring to pass through. The smaller opening is for the on/off switch:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6979/IMG_6979.jpg)
Here’s the chassis with the receiver and battery installed:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6928/IMG_6928.jpg)
The on/off switch has no mounting brackets, and was just hot glued into the Losi r/c car. I cut it loose, and hot glued a styrene angle to it so I could screw it onto the chassis:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6975c/IMG_6975c.jpg)
Here’s the on/off switch installed on the deck of the chassis:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6931/IMG_6931.jpg)
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6934c/IMG_6934c.jpg)
Finally, here’s an overhead shot of the battery and receiver installed in the vehicle:
(http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Railcar_1_files/Media/IMG_6922/IMG_6922.jpg)
At this point I’m kind of stumped. I have to find a way to put in seats and passengers, with the electronics taking up the space where their feet should be. I also need to keep it accessible. And I have to figure out how to attach the roof of the vehicle. I’d like to permanently attach the roof but I’m not sure if that will be possible. It’ll depend on how I solve the seating/passenger issue.
It’s kind of hard to tell from the pix how high those mounting blocks are on the inside corners, but if you built them up a little more and added a false floor that just sat on the blocks you could add the seats and people. As for the roof a tight friction fit might be the answer since it doesn’t look like there’s a whole lot of area to add screws. That way everything on the inside would be accessible.
So far I’m liking it a lot. So much so that I just received a "32 Chevy “Phaeton” off eBay and you have me looking it over…hmmm…
Ray, that is really looking nice.
For making stuff removable, I’ve been VERY pleased with the tiny magnets available here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/
What Losi kit did you start with? So, that’s their receiver? When you mentioned that you were using a racing base, I thought it would be way too fast, but your video shows that is has very nice slow speed.
Wow! Love the vid!
Seriously cool.
Bruce, here’s the Losi set I got:
The r/c race car is very fast, but that’s due to the motor and gearing. I’m only using the electronics. The motor I’m using is this one:
Ray, Thanks for those links. I guess I missed the motor substitution, but that makes a lot more sense to use that motor - now you really have a nice speed.
What sort of range are you getting?
Ray, did you think about an inset consisting of floor, benches and fixed people?
in that case you could cut the figure’s legs slightly shorter and build the benches lower without being easyly seen.