Large Scale Central

ICE in Florida

Modeling Rolling stock
#21

David Maynard said:

Pete, often times when I want to cut out windows on buildings and such, I cut inside the line and then work to the line with emery boards and files. Also my straight edge is placed so the the waste side of the cut is exposed. That way, if there is any tendency for the blade to wander, it will wander into the scrap part, and it just requires a bit more sanding in that spot to get the opening to where I want it.

David, what are you cutting with? And there are lots of windows here to cut, so I doubt I’d have the patience to do all four sides and then file them out.

#22

Another couple of pics from Calusa Creek.

We have a curious situation with the power block that someone might know something about. When we first ran it (video in first post) the wheels/axles on the power truck could drop down so far the gears went out of mesh. The set would stop on bumpy track and you could hear the gears almost meshing as the motor spun. (The owner had replaced a traction tire so we thought maybe something was missing.) Today it stopped occasionally as if the gears were binding. I took the bottom plate off and couldn’t see any reason, so I carefully replaced it.

Now, only the front axle can lift up enough to un-mesh the gears. And it ran without binding although it slowed in a couple of places.

All I can think about is that maybe the motor has shifted? Anybody had one of these apart?

#23

And today’s video, shot for the prior owner’s enjoyment!

#24

Pete Thornton said:

David Maynard said:

Pete, often times when I want to cut out windows on buildings and such, I cut inside the line and then work to the line with emery boards and files. Also my straight edge is placed so the the waste side of the cut is exposed. That way, if there is any tendency for the blade to wander, it will wander into the scrap part, and it just requires a bit more sanding in that spot to get the opening to where I want it.

David, what are you cutting with? And there are lots of windows here to cut, so I doubt I’d have the patience to do all four sides and then file them out.

Pete, I use a hobby (Xacto) knife’s blunt edge, it removes little strips of plastic with each pass and cuts through thick plastic faster then using the sharpened edge. For large openings, I have drilled holes and used a coping saw, but I have to stay a bit further from the edge, since the coping saw makes a bit of a rough cut and likes to wander a bit.

#25

It just occurred to me that it is highly unusual to see a high-speed train on a single-track branch line!

#26

That is the one train along with the Flyers that looks best when run at high speeds. It does look a bit odd on a single track branch like you said Pete but it sure looks good snaking through the curves.

The back story could be that it took a wrong turn onto your layout and got lost.

As for the motor are there bushings on the axles or does the plastic cover hold the axles in place? It sounds like something is worn. Gears going in and out of mesh is a good way to wear them out quick.

If memory serves from removing other LGB engine covers I think there is a bit of a spring to it. Have you removed the axles? The bushings might be directional and not put in properly?

Just some thoughts. Hopefully someone with more experience like Dan Pierce will chime in.

#27

I’d use a separating disc, but not in a high speed Dremel, I have a Foredom with the flex shaft and foot control. Run at slower speeds you can limit the melt and make accurate cuts. Much easier on my arthritic hands.

#28

John Caughey said:

I’d use a separating disc, but not in a high speed Dremel, I have a Foredom with the flex shaft and foot control. Run at slower speeds you can limit the melt and make accurate cuts. Much easier on my arthritic hands.

I had a feeling it was going to be a question of ‘which tool’ is the best for cutting plastic coaches. My dremel and my drill press, even when the latter was running at low speed, couldn’t stop a cutting bit from wandering, as the plastic coach was never held securely enough. I suspect a vertical mill with a proper x/y table might be a solution to the wandering problem, but then you have to hold a plastic coach body still without scratching the outside. . .

Ah well, the good news is that Jack will be doing it, not me, and my Accucraft coaches are all done!

#29

Pete Thornton said:

It just occurred to me that it is highly unusual to see a high-speed train on a single-track branch line!

And it is also unusual to see an electric locomotive running without the overhead catenary.

#30

For cutting out a bunch of the same windows on the train how about setting up some type of metal guide to be placed over the window to be cut out then using a dremel with a cutting drill bit on it you could move along the edge without going outside the lines.

#31

David Maynard said:

Pete Thornton said:

It just occurred to me that it is highly unusual to see a high-speed train on a single-track branch line!

And it is also unusual to see an electric locomotive running without the overhead catenary.

Not so much with the third rail and a shoe … they were common, back in my day. All one would see was a low fence close to the track. Some shoes ran on top and the others underneath the rail hung on the fence … simplified vision.

#32

When I make a window hole in plastic, I drill a row of small holes around the inside of the marks. (1/16 drill bit about 1/16 apart.) Then a follow up with a dremel cutting disc.

Most of the time, depending on the size of the window, all you have to do is cut three sides. you can break the fourth side just by moving it back and forth a couple times.

I have a set of flat files that are specifically used for aluminum finishing for smoothing up the hole. They work beautifully on plastic. I’ve had them for thirty

years and they are still sharp as ever.

This method works for wood siding or thin plywood as well, but you don’t snap the fourth side.

#33

This is your friend

Image result for file card(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

#34

When I make a window hole in plastic, I drill a row of small holes around the inside of the marks. (1/16 drill bit about 1/16 apart.) Then a follow up with a dremel cutting disc.

I can see these various methods working well on one or two windows, but 8 per side on 5 coaches ?? 90 windows?

#35

Took a slightly older loco to Jack’s today - looked a bit weird passing the ICE. [The guy is 7/8ths scale and I think the ICE is only 1/29th or 1/26th.)

#36

Pete Thornton said:

When I make a window hole in plastic, I drill a row of small holes around the inside of the marks. (1/16 drill bit about 1/16 apart.) Then a follow up with a dremel cutting disc.

I can see these various methods working well on one or two windows, but 8 per side on 5 coaches ?? 90 windows?

That’s one of those projects you sit on your workbench. Then, every time you go work on something else, you also open a window or two. To try and do it all consecutively would lead to mind melt.

#37

You can save a bunch of time if you do 80% of your filing with one of these in your hand tool …

I grabbed the first pic I saw, but they come in a variety of tips. Lower speeds and a light touch so it doesn’t gouge your work.

I’d still file for the perfect finish.

Sean posted a pic of a File Card, should you want to ask for one, very helpful keeping the file free from clogging up.

From experience doing runs of lots at work; it was best to do the same step for all at the same time, then the next step…