Todd Brody said:
If you were going to share anything you had made, you would have done it long ago. And why would you even think that you are only sharing it with me? Lots of other people here too. Get real!
There is something seriously wrong with you, derailing a thread because you want to know what I did with my Sherline. Shame on all of you.
I really don’t. The point is that you don’t follow up on stuff that you say you will. That’s all.
ding. Time. Take it to email.
Dick, it may be helpful to your design to print a couple of the existing designs on Thingiverse. This way you can see first hand how some of the other designers have done the split to accommodate the print platform. It’s also a useful tool to make sure your profile and other settings are optimum for your design.
I have printed 4 narrow-gauge flatcars designed by TrotFox ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967515 ) 2 were in 1:29 and two in 1:24. This design is well thought out, prints in 2 parts, and seamlessly joins with a bit of glue.
I also printed 2 designs for a friend in 1:29. The first was a staked standard gauge flatcar by designer PMO ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:183820 ). This is an interesting design in that the undercarriage and deck each print in 3 sections. The second was a modification of the first design by designer RABY ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1437417 ). Both of these designs came out great and were reasonably easy to join together.
I’m looking forward to seeing your finished design. This 3D printing stuff is fun!
John R.
John, it looks like there are no “braces” or other parts reinforcing the joint on TrotFox’s design, just butt-gluing the 2 identical halves. I was surprised that there was not some “tongue and groove” or overlapping “fingers” between the 2 pieces.
Is this common? (i.e. the glued joint is strong enough?)
Greg
Greg, When I started to print my first TrotFox designed car my plan was to drill a couple of matched holes in each side and use pins to stiffen the joint.
When the car was done, I thought I would just try a butt joint, if it didn’t work, worse case I’m out 50 cents of plastic and electricity.
I lightly sanded / squared up the butting surfaces, placed the car on it’s back on a hard smooth surface, and used a PLA solvent ( SciGrip 4 ) to bond the halves together. I placed a weight at each end to lightly hold the parts together and one over the middle to keep the assembly from bowing. I came back in a couple of hours and the bond was solid. The joint is right between two deck boards, so from the top the joint is invisible. On the bottom there were some small gaps in places on the beams which were quickly cured with some Tamiya putty. The three remaining cars were done the same way.
TrotFox’s design worked out very well for me. Once it was glued, a little adjustment on the bolsters and a little sanding on the coupler pockets was all that was needed. Add paint, couplers, trucks, and detail parts and you are ready to go.
Sorry to derail your thread, Dick, but I wanted to answer the question as well as I could.
John R.
I don’t see derailment, this is Dick’s first one, and hearing from someone who has done it is helpful, I want to print some myself, and hearing the cement makes a good bond helps everyone I would say.
Greg