The track for my new yard is down on my benchwork and I’m happy.

The plans are to isolate and operate 8 blocks on this table. All the insulated rail joiners are in place and the next step is to wire the tracks. I’m using a common rail with the other insulated like I have done on other sidings on my RR and like I did back in the HO days.

Question is what type of toggle do I use and where can I get them cheap considering I need 8 of them?

All I need is on/off.

I plan on painting a board with the track diagram on it then mounting the switches through that and then putting the whole deal into a tupper ware container to protect it from the elements.

My power comes from a 24volt 12amp transformer. If I’m running power from one rail through a toggle do I need one that is rated for 12 amps?

What would you suggest and where is the best source for the 8 toggles I need?

Also what AWG wire would you suggest?

Thanks

Hi Todd -

About 5 years ago I broke up my outdoor layout into blocks so I could run several track powered trains individually. Rather than use a centrally located block control panel, I mounted my switches in standard outdoor electrical boxes using blank “Decora” plates to mount the switches. I was able to fit up to three switches per blank.

I cant recall exactly, but I think I probably used 10A SPST toggles. A good cheap source is www.allelectronics.com but if you are in a hurry the local Radio Shack store might have two or three in stock. I ended up cutting the handles short so the box cover would close.

For wire, use the largest practical and keep the run as short as possible. A good easy to find (Lowes, Home Depot) choice is Low Voltage Outdoor Lighting cable. Comes in 12 gauge two conductor direct burial.

I’ve since converted to nearly 100% battery power and the block switches haven’t been used in 3 or 4 years.

For powering a siding the wire size depends on how far away the power switch is.

For being close I would just use 16 or 14 guage, 12 is over kill and what size are your engines?

Only thing I know that needs 10 amps would be a consist of PA/PB’s and lit passenger cars or some other large diesel setups.

And remember being a siding, it is not as if you care about a 1 or 2 volt drop, you need to go slow anyway!!

Thanks guys good points and very true Dan, in the yard “you need to go slow anyway!!”

After doing a local search for toggles and finding a average price of $4.50 I’m going back to my original plan of using light switches and lamp cord. I already have most of what I need to get it done. It is cheap and it works. I have already spent more than I wanted to on this project.

Light switches about another $10. Toggles about $60 by the time it’s done.

This yard will have an option to be run off my main line TE or totally seperated via 2 switches that I have already installed so I can run the yard with a small seperate transformer.

Thanks.

Dan Pierce said:

For powering a siding the wire size depends on how far away the power switch is.

For being close I would just use 16 or 14 guage, 12 is over kill and what size are your engines?

Only thing I know that needs 10 amps would be a consist of PA/PB’s and lit passenger cars or some other large diesel setups.

And remember being a siding, it is not as if you care about a 1 or 2 volt drop, you need to go slow anyway!!

I don’t disagree for sidings Dan. My blocks are mostly all on the main so I didn’t want any voltage drop. For my indoor yard I use 16 and 18. I got real lazy on a stub end yard that ends on a shelf; no switches at all. I just have a long lead with an alligator clip I connect to the track I want to power.

Todd, inside or outside? Inside, you could use Atlas toggles for your yard. Outside, you will need to allow for some sort of weather proofing.

Iused to have a whole bank of those Atlas toggles back in my HO days but my large scale layout is outside Steve. For years now I have been using light switches mounted in small buildings located next to the sidings that they isolate. It has worked well and I have only had to replace one out of 5 in the last 3 years due to it getting wet.

Thanks guys, I hope to have the yard wired up this weekend.

I’m not an electrician.

I heard that the contacts on the switch have to be rated to be switched under load. So if U get a 10amp switch for example, it can handle a few more amps as long as you’re not switching it under load. I don’t believe that the trains would draw full juice on a siding just sitting there. Just trying to help.