Just started converting most of my engines over to battery power, I think I have now run more this year then all of last year (DAMN CONNECTIONS and dirty track) The esc that I’m using is a $5 el cheapo from Hong Kong they don’t come with a reverse function however that upgrade only adds $11.99 to the conversions and that’s bought from the local hobby shop that’s expensive, can do it much cheaper if I wanted. ($1.95 ea from hong kong)

I got the idea from this guy - http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/2point4GHz.htm

The esc ($5)

The RX ($8 ish)

the TX - was $25 ish

The engines i use more frequently I installed servos to change directons

I installed a DPDT switch to revers manually some of the engines and the batteries i’m using are from my cordless drills so I use the clips to attach them

Good for you, Mark. Way to hop!

Going from DC with only being able to run one engine, to being able to run 4 is great!! Still have a few tweaks here to do, running them on 18v Porter cable and 14v Ryobi batteries for now.

John Le Forestier said:
Good for you, Mark. Way to hop!

that is called cheap buy. but still better to buy a branded one.

http://www.niceledlights.com

Adding switches on the tender for my sons engines to get them to reverse with some extra switches I had lying around (3 switches from the power pack my USA trains starter kit came from

Blew the main transformer at the electric pole for my 2 barns, If I wasn’t batter power I wouldn’t be able to run till the new part comes arrives in 2 weeks.

“A thrifty buy” sounds much better then a “cheap Buy”

Not sure why it’s better to buy a branded one. Was talking with a gentleman that spent $2k to upgrade his layout & 5 engines with DCC, to me that’s ridiculous waste of money as now he has to rely on that one manufacturer to always have product on hand to continue. What i’m using I can go to any RC hobby store and find acceptable replacements

Hmm… I can use ANY DCC decoder on my layout, and I can get one for $35, you spent $17 plus $$ for your batteries. Seems that I can do way more than you can with the same per loco cost. Sure my controller costs more, but my one controller will work with any DCC loco.

I’m glad you found something inexpensive… I’d wager though I could match your total cost with an entry level DCC system on your 4 or 5 locos.

Don’t take me wrong, I see you are happy. Me too.

Greg

Mark Dash said:
Just started converting most of my engines over to battery power, I think I have now run more this year then all of last year (DAMN CONNECTIONS and dirty track).......

Was very easy to convert, and so far nothing but fun running WITHOUT cleaning tracks

I think you missed his point Greg.

In addition to missing the point,

Greg, as a self employed person, time = money, I’m quite sure you will spend more time then me working on track connections, and cleaning track, during that time your not running your engines are you?

I spent $17 a piece on 2 loco’s because I was not patient, the rest of them are about $10 with postage. so any additional engines would be $15 less then dcc

I spent a total of $200 (granted $70 of that was postage) to upgrade 10 engines using batteries I already had. How much was just your controller? Still interested in a wager?

You speak of batteries being expensive, I spent no extra money on batteries, I’m using the same ones that for my cordless power tools

Care to add up all the little cost incurred with maintenance on that track? Sanding blocks, conductive greases, wiring, piping for said wiring?

And for that wager i’m sure your using the cheap standard connectors that come with the tracks right?? Or did you have to invest more to use the more reliable split jaw (or similar type) and spend $2 more minimum per connection?

Oh and did I mention that I’m only using brass track for the mainline (already bought before going battery) all of my sidings are either PLASTIC @ $1per foot or Bachman tin track. I’d really like to see you try running dcc on that tin stuff after it being outside like mine has for the last 3 years Track on the outside line of this picture is Aristocrap, the siding is Bachman

Updated the picture that Tony refernces in the next post

(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj209/markdash/2013%20Rebuild/layoutand628024.jpg)

the siding in this photo is also bachman tin

(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj209/markdash/2013%20Rebuild/before2011004.jpg)

another siding with all bachman tin track (the building was crushed by a falling tree limb last month

(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj209/markdash/Spring/layoutjune2012011.jpg)

What sort of R/C transmitter is the young fella holding in the pic?

Mark glad you were able to find an inexpensive way to convert your engines. Im doing the same, although I started out with the simple critter control and bought battery packs. (Im still learning about electonics ect… otherwise I would have gone more your route.) I still like running my track power but battery sure is nice for when I dont wont to clean track, run something last minute or running in the snow. Trackpower is still nice for those times when I forget to charge the batteries or the batteries die.
The tin track from bachmann will last a few years or longer outside. I have had a section of it outside for 3 years now and it looks great all rusted. Rails are still completly intact.

Tony he is using the Lionel controller that comes with the Hogwarts Express train set, other wise we use Hobby King, he has a 4 channel that runs 2 engines(f+R) I use a 6 channel, running 2 with f+r and 2 with forward and manual reverse.

My layout is set up for operations not roundy rounds, so running more then 2 by one person is a little tough regardless if controllers.

Before anyone chimes in a says with DCC or Revo you can control 100 engines at a time, well not really, you have to program all the info to do so and cannot reprogram all 100 of them at once, you do cycle through to the appropriate engine to change speed/direction correct?

Shawn I knew and probably still know nothing about electronics, the Hobby king esc is so idiot proof that anyone can use it. It has supposedly a 12v max however i’m running with 14.4 and 18.whatever drill batteries.

Thanks for the info Mark.
Independently controlling two locos on the same track at the same time is difficult enough, let alone more than two at a time. So, I agree with you, having the (so called) ability to control 100 is just so much B-S and marketing hype.

Like Tony, I’m with Mark here.

Around the Littleton and Smallville Railroad we’re all about operations, not roundy-roundies, and one train per operator is plenty. Sometimes one train is better off with TWO operators! So how many trains do you need to run at a time? I agree with Tony that all the rest is B.S.

And what I like about Mark’s initiative here is that a) he’s taking the plunge and it’s paid off for him right away in more pleasure and much less hassle., and b) he’s done it with inexpensive bits and bobs. That’s admirable! That’s the way to go!

As for DCC, well, for a number of reasons it has never turned me on personally, and for me it holds distinct disadvantages; I’m firmly in the radio-control battery power camp, I’m afraid…

And the battery power option has been improving by leaps and bounds lately, don’t you agree?

So here’s to Mark and his newfound joys, and a big thanks to him for posting his experience for us.

Good for you Mark. I started with Batt/RC when I started my outdoor railroad and have been pleased ever since.

As for DCC, I also have an HO layout that runs on a Digitrax DCC system. I love it and have no problems with it. But I definately love the fact I dont clean my rails and I dont worry about track connections on my outdoor layout. On the indoor layout, I actually wired feeders to every section of track to make sure I had no dead spots and allowed me to not have to soldier the track together to allow for expansion. It has worked for about 10 years with no problems. But I still have to clean the track every once in a while.

Obviously I have more influence of expansion in the great outdoors and weathering of track and the RC has worked much better. But that is my humble opinion.

I still have track power capability, but seldom use it. Yesterday I needed to move some track powered equipment that was on my indoor yard and was very frustrated by dirty track. Good thing I have a long stick with a hook to help things along

BTW, I was moving my Connie from the end of a yard track so I can get started on setting it up for trail car power & sound.

Way to go Mark. Don’t worry, you won’t look back.

How’s the plastic rail holding up for you?

I’ve had some outside for 3 or 4 years at least for some sidings. Now that I’m battery I have removed the straight brass sections that went through the barn and put them outside as well. The majority of the plastic stuff is along the side of the barn and does not get full sun at all.

Any corrosion on the track is called traction on my RR.
Only thing powered are the switches and that is from a solar cell charging a battery to run the switch RC receiver.

Mark Dash said:
The esc that I'm using is a $5 el cheapo from Hong Kong they don't come with a reverse function however that upgrade only adds $11.99 to the conversions and that's bought from the local hobby shop that's expensive, can do it much cheaper if I wanted. ($1.95 ea from hong kong)

What are you using for reverse function?

Wayne