Looking for a safe and effective method of removing the existing screen printed logos and lines on an LGB Forney so I can put on new ones made by Stan Cedarleaf…I appreciate anyone’s advice if they’ve don this before.
Thanks -Richard
Richard… That’s a tough one…
For LGB stuff, you might try 91% Isopropyl alcohol and/or denatured alcohol on a qtip or a cloth “swab”. I’ve even “gently” mixed lacquer thinner with the denatured but that can be dangerous. Use it gently…
Make some tests… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Also, I did a google search for “How to Remove lettering from Model Trains” and came up with a number of “hits”. Here’s a couple if links. Removing lettering from HO Model Removing Lettering from a Bachmann Coach
And I got this tip from one of my customers who does some very fine O scale modelling. He uses this from Joes Model Trains. Decal & Detail Remover Erie, Pa. 814-806-4141
Wasn’t there an extensive thread on all the chemicals/techniques somewhere?
Greg
As you are going to be applying a waterslide type decal, with I assume a full backing carrier film (other products that I have used of Stan’s are made that way), then using a very fine 1200 grade wet/dry paper to remove the tampo printed decoration will be probably be the easiest method. You can get finer grade cloths to do this as well. You will have to apply a gloss base coat for the decal to be applied over, to help hide the carrier film, anyway and that will level/hide the finely abraded area where you have removed the decoration. Once you have applied the decals and let them dry you should be applying a finishing/sealing coat of whatever finish you want to give a consistent appearance, be it matt/satin/gloss. Saves messing around with a load of dubious chemicals and possibly causing irreparable damage ( if you don’t count the lacquers ). Always check that whatever gloss and finishing coats you are using are compatible with any factory applied finishes on the loco body that there will be residues of and the decals.
P.S. You could get away without a gloss base coat for the decal by applying a proprietary plastic polish to the area from where you have removed the decoration. Some car paint restorers can be used for this purpose too. They, as well as plastic polishes, could even be used to remove the decoration as they are very fine abrasives in themselves. You then end up with a fully prepped surface for the decal, after washing away any residues. Then all you have to do is apply a final finish, over the decal, that matches the rest of the loco in the areas were the decals are applied.
Greg Elmassian said:
Wasn’t there an extensive thread on all the chemicals/techniques somewhere?
Greg
Yes
Thanks!
Thanks Max and Stan for the advice…I need to get serious about working on this project. The last time I worked on my Forney was back in January…and now here we are almost at the end of the year.
As far as any previous thread about this…it could have been me asking the same question…but when I’m only on this site every six to eight months who knows. I can’t remember last week. So my apologies for bringing up a subject again.
Hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving!!
Richard
Hey Mark!! Thanks for the links…I completely forgot about the first one using the cotton ball technique. I actually used it a few years ago to remove some lettering off a Bachmann 3-truck shay. Thanks for the reminder…
Richard
What about those airbrushes that use baking soda powder (bi carbonate of soda)…supposed to do the job without damage.???
Ross Mansell said:
What about those airbrushes that use baking soda powder (bi carbonate of soda)…supposed to do the job without damage.???
I’ve used one of those, it was called an air eraser, but I used the aluminum oxide grit that came with the kit. It would also use baking soda, but haven’t tried. As long as you are planning to repaint afterwards it worked well. It left a nice smooth surface.