Large Scale Central

Medium spikes?

I have a section of track on a trestle that I’m going to hand-lay on wood timbers. I’m looking at the various Micro-Engineering spikes. I wonder if the medium spikes (30-104) would be suitable for code 250 rail. They are 3/8" long, but I’m not sure how big the heads are. The large spikes, which they indicate are for G, are 1/2", which would protrude from my ties. I’d rather not have to trim them.

Thanks.

Actually, there is some sense to having spikes protrude, if the tapered end is still in the tie, heating and cooling can push them out, just in the way you never put a tapered ended post into the ground when you have freeze/thaw cycles.

This of course does not happen to everyone, depends on weather, if the spikes rust in place, etc. I have seen a number of posts from people with stainless steel spikes (no rusting = no friction) that had issues and they often solved this by bending over the protruding end.

So since this is on a trestle, i.e. hard to repair, have you considered bullet-proofing the construction and bending the ends over? A lot more work, but only done once!

Greg

The trouble is that the substrate is ABS, so I can’t really drive spike into that. And I need to assemble it in place because it’s a curve with easements at both ends. I suppose I could put a piece of foam down for assembly and then pull it out and trim the ends, but I’d really rather not. I’m going to also solder tabs to the rail and screw them down to keep it secure.

Eric Reuter said:

The trouble is that the substrate is ABS, so I can’t really drive spike into that. And I need to assemble it in place because it’s a curve with easements at both ends. I suppose I could put a piece of foam down for assembly and then pull it out and trim the ends, but I’d really rather not. I’m going to also solder tabs to the rail and screw them down to keep it secure.

Those look like just nails. Check out these https://llagascreekrailways.com/collections/accessories/products/spikes?variant=8058576773

You will need to contact them to find out how long they are but they sure look like they would hold better!

Nevermind. I think the llagus creek and ME are the same. If you use tie plates will that help?

Eric,

I use the 3/8" steel ME spikes all the time. Being cedar, I don’t predrill. If you can use wood for ties, you shouldn’t have a problem with the spikes. If you use ABS and have to drill spike holes, I think you will be asking for trouble. I actually think the 3/8 and the 1/2 spikes have the same size head, it is just the total length that is different.

Thanks! That’s exactly what I was looking for. I’m using dark red meranti, which is pretty hard. I’m not sure yet if I’ll have to drill it.

Eric Reuter said:

Thanks! That’s exactly what I was looking for. I’m using dark red meranti, which is pretty hard. I’m not sure yet if I’ll have to drill it.

I’m guessing you probably will have to drill. When I hit a knot in the cedar ties, the spikes bend. If you predrill, I would suggest adding a little glue to hold the spikes in place. Dip the spike in glue, insert.

I usually dip my nails in wood glue to act as a lubricant when inserting them, and then, when the glue dries, it reinforces the wood so the hole doesn’t enlarge and it helps hold the nails.

On my switch project, I did use longer nails and cinched them over. they never did come loose.

The 3/8 spikes will be fine. Pre drill your holes 1/2 or 2/3 the dia. of the spike. The hole will act as a guide and still have a

solid hold on the spike. Yes clinching them over on the bottom is the bullet proof way, but sometimes we don’t have options(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Thanks for the advice. I got the spikes and pliers, and am pre-drilling the 8 holes.

This is the basic layout of the deck, though it will be on a 96" radius curve:

This is the actual bridge structure (custom from J&S):

For drilling, I made up this jig from a chunk of PVC. I’m doing all of the first holes, then sliding the stop, all of the second holes, etc. It’s taking forever, but better than hand-drilling them. I’m not using tie plates.

Eric,

I used to drill redwood ties, and I used a jig made from brass U channel and tubes. Put the jig on the ties with one end against the stop, and just put the drill into each hole and press. My holes were bigger than yours, but smaller tube works just as well. Very fast and accurate, I found.

I also made gauges from a yard stick, by cutting off a piece about as long as a tie and then cutting slots for the railheads.

See attachment.

attachment?

David Maynard said:

attachment?

The pictures are attached!

I 3D-printed some custom gauges/holders to include the guard rails. They are visible in a couple of the photos.

Eric, is the file available on Thingiverse?

It is now: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3893977

The guard rail spacing is somewhat arbitrary. The local standard (Pan Am) is 9-1/2" web to web, but I wasn’t sure I could get the pliers in there. I used photos from Google to justify this spacing to myself.

Photo of the finished bridge (except guard rails):

Eric, beautiful bridge and workmanship… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

To keep it simple; First, my running rails are code 332, probably too heavy for most people dedicated to “Scale”

My guard rails are code 215, or 250…

I spike the guard rails in after I have the running rails installed and properly spiked.

The spikes for the guard rails are easily applied, if you start off by inserting the spikes next to the stock rails, with out driving them home, with the heads facing away from the running rails. Then, apply the guard rails against those spikes, and using a “Thin Nail punch” hammer all the spikes home as you work along the track.

I’m using Western red Cedar ties, and do not attempt to spike the rails on every tie.

I use a good quality oil based stain on the whole trestle deck, and let it cure for a week, before laying track. The trestle I’m building now is to replace one built over 20 years ago, which was built and only stained once, just the way the new one is.

I’m located in Eastern Ontario, Canada…

Fred Mills

This is dark red meranti, which is quite hard. I had to pre-drill all the holes, including those for the guard rails. It will be easy to install them, but I may not do it until spring.