Large Scale Central

Dual Gauge Turnout Build

Having built several normal turnouts and frogs I finally got the nerve to try my hand at a dual gauge turnout.

Our Phase 7 Extension has several and these have been the mental block in putting track down in this section.

The first step is to build the dual frogs which is the most difficult part of the turnout.

I use rail from a 5 foot section of Aristo SS track. Each rail makes one frog with parts left over for points. I use sectional rail because the rail has 2 holes for attaching each tie section. I cut the rail so that each section of the frog has two holes which I use to screw on a brass plate. This allows me to align the sections of rail.

Next step will be to solder the rail to the brass plate and then trim off the extra brass.

Stan

interesting challenge. what are the gauges? 45/32?

Stan, what solder and flux do you use on the stainless?

Greg

The only thing that I am aware of is silver solder with borax flux.

Stan… That looks great! I ve been using your old brass rail to build switches… Lots of fun and hard work. Cannot imagine doing it in stainless… Talk about hard work, sheesh! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Looks great! I am also interested in the soldering process of stainless to brass.

Stay brite silver bearing is probably what most should try;

http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/813132/grobet-stay-brite-high-strength-silver-solder-kit?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google--Gunsmithing±+Tools%2C+Jigs+%26+Fixtures--Grobet-_-813132&gclid=CK-E6OzK58wCFU1rfgodzdELaQ

This was the first up in a quick search.

John

I model in F Scale so the gauges are 70.6mm for standard gauge and 45mm for 3 ft narrow gauge.

The flux I use is Harris Stay Clean. I use standard 60/40 Rosin Core solder when I am soldering on electrical feeders and Stay Brite 8 when soldering the frogs and tie plates.

When soldering the frogs I use a map gas torch. When soldering on tie plates I use resistance soldering.

There are three steps.

Step 1 is to use a Dremel tool to grind the rail removing any oxide.

Step 2 is to add solder to the rail and brass strip

I then wash off the flux and solder the brass to the rail.

Once soldered I cut the brass to form a tie plate and screw the plate to the tie.

Long process but it works well.

Stan

Thank you Stan, nothing helps like understanding a successful procedure.

Greg

Next step in construction was to complete the dual frog by soldering it and then removing the extra brass from the bottom plate

To do this I first had to take off all the individual pieces of rail remove the oxide, add some flux, and put it all back together.

Then the complete assembly is put in a jig to hold it in place and to prevent flexing while soldering. The left side has been soldered the right side ready for solder.

Once soldered the extra flux is washed off and the brass plate is trimmed off.

completed dual frog

Next up the next rainy day will be the outside stock rails and the points. Lots of grinding to do.

Stan

Having a large railroad means that there is always something to do and often when a problem is encountered the project is put on hold for awhile and I move on to something else.

Such it was with the construction of a dual gauge turnout. I ran into a problem on how to build the third frog. I have built several turnouts for the railroad and one reason it is fairly easy is that I build the frog first and then build the turnout around the frog, As long as the alignment is good it really does not matter much if the degree of the frog angle is not precise.

That is not the case for the third frog. Since I am building that frog after the others are built its angles need to be precise. So I set the project aside until I could figure it out. Over time the workbench I am building it on got cluttered and the project was effectively lost.

Having some extra time I cleaned off the table and at the bottom of the pile was this partially built dual gauge turnout. I had no idea it had been so long singe I worked on this project. So over the last week I have been spending some time each day on it and I figured out how to build that pesky frog. Yesterday I soldered it up and today fitted it on the turnout. Lots of work still to do to finish the project but now its just doing it slowly as everything else I have done before.

Hopefully in the next month the turnout can find its way to be out on the railroad and I can start the next one.

Stan

the case for the third frog.

My understanding is that the D&RGW called them “2 frogs and a toad”. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

Your a better man than me, Charlie Brown…I mean Stan…(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

I’ve done a few, tedious but doable, mine are all code 332 aluminum so no soldering is needed

That’s beautiful work, Stan and Gary. I’m truly amazed.

For standard gauge locos, do you re-gauge, or scratch your own?

Awesome stuff, especially that curved switch on yours, Gary.

I am pleased to report that construction on the first dual gauge turnout has finally been completed and it is now out on the layout.

Alas before it can be connected to live track I have to build a second curved one. Now that I have the procedures down it will just take some time to construct.

First though I have to complete some dual gauge trackage and a standard gauge tunnel.

Stan

Beauteous, Stan!

What are you going to run on your standard gauge track?

[edit] Or is the wider gauge the 40mm, with the narrow being… O gauge?

ya dun good, old man…(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)

You do not often see dual gauge track, but when you do it is usually quite impressive. It look great, Stan.