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  • Topic: Big Hauler 0-4-0

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    • March 17, 2016 1:10 AM EDT
      • Post Falls, Idaho
         
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      Big Hauler 0-4-0

      What do we think of this for a basher for my indoor. Remember 30" diameter curves. I am looking for a few small locos that can be used for the tight curves for the indoor. I have one B-mann lil big hauler for this. I was looking at these on Ebay as well as the LGB stienz (sp) both are small blocks that seem like they would make good building blocks and are relatively inexpensive.

       

      Pluses, minuses, other options. I want to have an idea that way when they pop up dirt cheap I can get them.

      This post was edited by Devon Sinsley at March 17, 2016 1:12 AM EDT
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    • March 17, 2016 1:41 AM EDT

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      That looks like the early version with plastic siderods and gears. I can't say it's high on my "recommend" list. The later versions with metal siderods and brass gears are much improved.

       

      If you were looking for something cheap to have to run around the railroad without putting too much effort into it, I'd say go for it. However, if it's something that you're going to use as the basis for a fairly involved kitbash, I'd shy away. I'd hate to see you put a whole bunch of work into a model only to have the mechanics give up the ghost. I'm pretty sure the new version is revised to the point where you can't simply swap out the old for the new chassis. 

       

      Later,

       

      K

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    • March 17, 2016 8:20 AM EDT
      • St. Louis, MO
         
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      If it's LGB, buy it.

       

      I would stay away from the older Bachmann equipment -- it might be cheap but there's a reason it's cheap.  They just aren't worth it.

    • March 17, 2016 9:27 AM EDT
      • Maryland
         
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      I have a few of the Bachman Spectrum 0-4-0s that I run a great deal, I have found them to be good runners with no problems

      I do have the cheap earlier one also, and while it seems to run fine, the all plastic rods, and the like make it doubtful it will be as good.

      I would hold out for the Spectum 0-4-0 they are frequently under $100

       

      Jerry

       

       

       

    • March 17, 2016 9:38 AM EDT
      • Post Falls, Idaho
         
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      Thanks,

       

      That's just the info I need. All of these will be fairly involved kitbash scratch locos. So it will be important to put decent drives under them. The LGB is getting my attention because I know that people love them and they aren't real pricey and almost always available.

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    • March 17, 2016 9:41 AM EDT
      • Easton , Massachusetts
         
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      Look for one of these Devon

      This post was edited by Sean McGillicuddy at March 17, 2016 9:41 AM EDT
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    • March 17, 2016 9:47 AM EDT
      • Saint Johns, Florida
         
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      Devon,

      I have dabbled in these Bachmann 0-4-0s for sometime now. I have 5. Four are the version 2 with metal side rods, one is the Spectrum version.

      • First be aware that the Big Haulers are 1:22.5 scale and the Spectrum version is 1:20.3 scale and as such is bigger than it's Big Hauler cousins.
      • Second, no version has metal gears. They are all plastic, nylon, delron etc.
      • Third the gears have NEVER failed. What does fail in the Big Hauler versions is the rear axle connecting tenon. It is a zinc alloy and is only 2mm and has sheared several times on a couple of my BH 0-4-0s. In the past I was able to procure new rear axles from Barry Olsen, but that source has dried up. I had Barry build a new chassis for one of mine but it  has motor positioning problems which remain unsolved, so it is now relegated to the dead track for the time being.
      • Fourth, the side tanks on the BH versions are molded as separate parts and can be removed easily for a tendered conversion as I did a while ago. The Spectrum version boiler and side tanks are all one piece.
      • Fifth, the front axle on the BH versions is equalized and the Spectrum is not. I don't know why they did away with this very useful feature.

      If you need any more help or photos, please let me know.

       

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    • March 17, 2016 9:51 AM EDT
      • Smoggy L.A., Left Coast
         
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      If it has the metal siderods its a good one, if it has plastic siderods then they could go wonky at any time. The very earliest ones were the ones most prone to this. If you can get the 1:22.5 one with metal siderods, that's the best one IMO. It has a pivoting front axle that runs better on rough track, the later 1/20.3 version eliminated this in favor of more room for internal electronics and is more prone to derailment on rough track as a result, also the 1/22.5 is about 15% smaller than the 1/20.3 version so it works and looks far better on small diameter curves.

       

      My main concern on a 30" diameter curve will be couplers, these are fairly long for a small engine, that means overhang ALOT of overhang on 30" diameters. I dont use this engine on the pizza because it has so much overhang it jams into the scenery. But if you use the knuckle coupler, even though it pivots, it may still drag the trailing car off the rails due to the overhang putting the coupler so far out of line of the track center. If you use the 1/20 version your guaranteed to have issues with this on 30".

       

      I prefer much smaller engines for 30" diameter. I use HLW Macks and 0-4-0s, LGB Porters and Bachmann Lil Big Haulers, also I use link/pin couplers with extended length links to compensate for the tightness of the curves. The biggest issue with couplers is too closely mounted and the corners of the cars will bang into each other on curves derailing the lot. You should be OK with Bachmann type knuckles on small cars but you may have to do a bit of experimentation on the layout to see what works best mounting wise.

      This post was edited by Vic Smith at March 17, 2016 9:52 AM EDT
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    • March 17, 2016 12:26 PM EDT
      • Post Falls, Idaho
         
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      Sean McGillicuddy said:

      Look for one of these Devon

      I do want one of these but not for what I am referring too. While it is a motor block yes, how would one make an internal framed steamer with drive and side rods? I guess I should have been more specific in that the locos I want to build will all be small logging/mining type steamers.

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    • March 17, 2016 12:52 PM EDT
      • Post Falls, Idaho
         
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      Vic,

       

      I know you have mentioned the Lil Big Hauler and I have one just based on your recommendation. Forget the engine as a whole because I will chop up whatever I get. How much longer is the 1/22 version of this loco than the Lil Big Hauler. I am speaking to just the motor blocks. I would cut bash or otherwise build an entirely new cab and boiler. That will be true of any of them. I can't leave them the way they are that would be. . .well. . .just wrong. One of the things that caught my eye with this and the LGB is that there is a drive ride unlike the Lil Big Hauler which will need to be added. I don't mind doing that however.

       

      If someone has a pic of the motor block minus the shell that would be useful.

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    • March 17, 2016 2:41 PM EDT
      • Post Falls, Idaho
         
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      Thanks,

       

      thats the 1:20 version but I wonder if they have the 1/22 version. And how different are they in his regard. I'll look

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    • March 17, 2016 3:14 PM EDT
      • Vail, Az
         
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      Devon,

      I bet you could shove a mack drive into this lovely...

      The tender is hinged at the draw bar.

      There you go!

      John

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      John

       

      The older I get, the less I know, please don't make me prove it.

       

       

    • March 17, 2016 4:19 PM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      Devon, I have the 2-4-2 Bachmann big hauler (laugh when you say that) Even with an extra pound of lead weight in her, she can't haul enough to pay for the fuel (lectricity) she uses. And I know the drive train is being stressed close to the point of failure.

      Since it's a very similar drive in that loco, if not the same, don't have high hopes for it Devon.

      Now the spectrum one is a different story.
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    • March 17, 2016 6:39 PM EDT

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      Joe Zullo said:

      • Second, no version has metal gears. They are all plastic, nylon, delron etc.
       

      I thought mine has brass gears, but maybe not. Been a while since I had it apart.

       

      Later,

       

      K

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    • March 17, 2016 7:06 PM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      Brass gears? That would have to make it a new new spectrum, or something someone "improved" with "aftermarket" parts.

      And I am not certain the new new spectrums have brass gears.
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    • March 17, 2016 7:49 PM EDT
      • Saint Johns, Florida
         
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      Kevin Strong said:
      Joe Zullo said:

      • Second, no version has metal gears. They are all plastic, nylon, delron etc.
       

      I thought mine has brass gears, but maybe not. Been a while since I had it apart.

       

      Later,

       

      K

      I assure you they are NOT brass gears. I take the bottom off to grease it and did so today.

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    • March 18, 2016 1:23 AM EDT

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      Thanks. I know Bachmann updated the 2-4-2 "Lyn" with brass gears; I was probably thinking they did these as well or just picturing that in my mind instead of the 0-4-0. They are, at least, far more reliable than the original 0-4-0s. I use mine as a "track clearer" on my railroad. It's just got a simple "Critter Control" speed controler in it with a 7.4 volt battery. I'll let it run around the railroad before an open house or something to clear all the debris and let me know which plants need to be trimmed back. It's been known to get quite tangled in my oregano from time to time, with the wheels spinning gleefully all the while.

       

      Later,

       

      K

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