I recently purchased an Airwire Drop In G-3 for the USA Trains GP 7/9. Basically, this is just an Airwire G3, for those of us who are electronically challenged. All I had to do was follow the explicit (very easy) directions, unclip the PC board that came with the Geep, clip in the Airwire board, make sure that all the wires stayed put (frankly the biggest challenge) and didn’t stray outside of the body connecting posts, screw everything down, and ba-da-bing, ba-da-boom, its done. It even has its own built in battery charger, how sweet is that? I moved the smoke PC board that was on the frame next to its cousin on the overhead. I have a big enough battery that I’ll probably use smoke from time to time. I’m using a 14.8 Volt 5200mAH battery.

Sound isn’t a real big deal for me, so I elected not to install that (yet). Perhaps later. The Phoenix P8 will just clip right in. Cool.

Since part of the install procedure included removing the side frames from the trucks (why did USAT make removing the body so difficult? I guess the guy who designed the thing knew that he would never have to work on it.), I decided to take a look at the gear. Yup, it has a small split starting, just like the rest of them. It should last through Saturday, when I use it at a show, then I can do a R/R.

I called Jonathan Bliese at Electric Steam Model Works**** on Saturday, he returned the call Sunday morning, put the stuff in the mail on Monday, it arrived this morning (Thursday), and it is installed this afternoon. You can’t get better service than that. Thanks, Jonathan!

Now, I just have to build another locomotive carrier for it. Glad that I had the foresight to purchase a second aluminum angle when I bought the first one.

Steve cool. I don’t RC my equipment, but it is nice to know that its getting easier to do.

As for the wires, I use those paper covered, wire twisty things from bread wrappers, or garbage bags, to bundle wires together so they don’t misbehave as much.

I used them too, but there is always one with a mind of its own.

Steve,

Thanks for posting your review of the GP9 Airwire install.

I have a USAT SD40-2 that I have wanted to RC/battery, but never had the “nerve” to do it myself. Now that Airwire has a drop-in for the SD40-2, maybe I can try it.

Just read the instructions several times with the stuff in front of you before you even pick up a screw driver. You’ll do fine.

If all seems lost, get up from the table and go do something else for a while. The answer will usually appear when you are least expecting it.

Like Steve, Gary, I read the simple instructions and installed the AirWire Drop-in with immediate results in my GP-30.
My GP-9 is next.
Highly recommended.

So I guess you got your washing machine sorted out eh??

It’s not really necessary to remove the side frames from the USA GP7/9 to release the body shell. You can gently persuade the trucks to rotate enough to reveal the screw hole. I’ve had mine open several times and never took the side frames off.

There is a step-by-step disassembly procedure on George Schreyer’s page: http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips5/gp9_tips.html#disassembly

I’m with Jon just a nice long driver, drop in for the 7/9 been around long time i think it is more like the G2. yes the new sd40 dropin is a lot like the g3 no more have to make a remote frequency switch.

richard

They’ve updated the Geep 7/9 drop in so that it is now a G3. Just so you know.

Steve,

I just put in Three drop-ins two in 9’s and one in a 30. I found a long screwdriver that will take the

screws out with out removing the side frame. If you turn the trucks just right you can remove them

all.

Don

So, big question, do the “classification” lights change from green to red based on direction?

Can they be turned off remotely?

Is there any other lighting control by the throttle?

Thanks, Greg

Greg answer to your first ? is yes all the dropins work that way, 2nd ? is i do not think so they use the oem boards and to the 3rd ? there are a lot other light controls for the head lights and ditch lights.

richard

The downloadable manual is confusing:

The board has outputs for:

aux light

cab light

front headlight with markers and numberboards

rear headlight with markers and numberboards

The manual states function controls in a table:

F0 - headlights on/off

F11 - cab and numberboards

later on in the manual it states:

F0 toggles headlights, numberboards and marker lights

F11 is cab interior light

So I am wondering how it really works with F0 and F11, and how you control the AUX output.

If anyone can try this I’d appreciate it. I’m pretty darn familiar with how the lights are wired in both generations of GP7’s and this just sort of does not make sense.

Thanks, Greg

Greg Elmassian said:

The downloadable manual is confusing:

The board has outputs for:

aux light

cab light

front headlight with markers and numberboards

rear headlight with markers and numberboards

The manual states function controls in a table:

F0 - headlights on/off

F11 - cab and numberboards

later on in the manual it states:

F0 toggles headlights, numberboards and marker lights

F11 is cab interior light

So I am wondering how it really works with F0 and F11, and how you control the AUX output.

If anyone can try this I’d appreciate it. I’m pretty darn familiar with how the lights are wired in both generations of GP7’s and this just sort of does not make sense.

Thanks, Greg

Greg,

Ask Paul Burch. I was discussing this exact item with him a couple of days ago.

Thanks Gary, I shoulda known ha ha!

Greg