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    • December 29, 2019 6:26 PM EST
    • At that size you can paint the details on ...

    • December 29, 2019 6:24 PM EST
    • Jim Rowson said:

      Nice job! That is similar to my plan, though I only have 4 hoppers. Short cars work well on a length challenged railroad. It is those details that make it all seem realish eh?

      I don't plan on getting over the top crazy with detail parts but since this is indoors, a little more protected, and closer to eye level, I am going to add some detail to them. But I plan on operating and that will mean handling cars so a lot of fine fiddly details just isn't gonna happen. The detail will come in the scenery and buildings and other static stuff.

    • December 29, 2019 5:30 PM EST
    • Nice job! That is similar to my plan, though I only have 4 hoppers. Short cars work well on a length challenged railroad. It is those details that make it all seem realish eh?

    • December 29, 2019 5:23 PM EST
    • Nice start on the hopper car, Devon. 

    • December 29, 2019 4:19 PM EST
    • Well been messing around some more with this On30 stuff. I was looking and Shapeways has quite a selection of On30 stuff. One guy in particular has some short running stock. And I like the looks of the smaller stuff. So I have decided all my cars will be round that 20 scale feet mark. The log car is 22' and I started this hopper which is 20 fee


      I added some bolts to the log car and I really like how its looking. Having to wait for my orders to come in for trucks and detail parts. I plan to have maybe six of these cars. 3 loaded and three empty. I am going to make 6 hoppers with removable loads.


    • December 27, 2019 5:06 PM EST
    • David Maynard said:

      Why the heck is your finger anywhere near them things when you snap them down?

      No one accused me of being smart. I usually use a pipe. But I have gotten my finger in there. Damn lucky I didn't break it.

    • December 27, 2019 4:46 PM EST
    • Devon Sinsley said:
      David Maynard said:
      Devon Sinsley said:
      David Maynard said:

      You need binders on them chains.

      they will. I found a source for them. The ones I was finding were the ratcheting type but finally found some of the right type so binders will be included.

      They are called snap binders. I have some experience with them.....

      I think I still might have a 1:1 version of them lurking in the recesses of my garage.

      Lol, we just call them chain binders. Them fancy ratcheting type are to high falutin' for my crowd so we just use good old chain binders. I finally gave all min to my dad. I had four or five of them. He has a tractor that he ties down to his car trailer so he has a use for them. They will smash the **** out of a finger.


      I was able to get some from Don Mills Models on EBAY I think I bought enough for six cars (12 binders). They are a pretty nice white metal casting from the looks of it.

      Why the heck is your finger anywhere near them things when you snap them down? I used an extender pipe on mine, and my fingers were well away from them when I snapped them down, or unsnapped them.


      Pete, I operated company equipment, so I used what the company supplied. Many of the covered wagons had the ratchet type, but I usually didn't hook under a covered wagon.

    • December 29, 2019 3:09 PM EST
    • Hmmm wonder if all y'all will want to rent oven time? 

    • December 29, 2019 2:02 PM EST
    • after reading that I guess I wont be using the wife's oven anytime soon, thanks for the lesson, Bill

    • December 29, 2019 1:42 PM EST
    • after looking at your picture maybe the .0015 would be a little thin, I've done coke cans before but never steel and was just looking for something that looked a little more real the aluminum is hard to paint and have look good, Bill


    • December 29, 2019 12:55 PM EST
    • Sorry, Bill, I have no experience with other thicknesses of shim stock. I do admit that I am a bit disappointed in the depth of the corrugation I get with the .003 so it may work better at .0015.

      fwiw, here's a couple of pictures of some roofing after a couple of years outside:



      As I mentioned, the corrugations aren't that deep. fyi: a lot of the bending and other damage is because the wind keeps blowing my roofs off, as I haven't attached them yet due to a long overdue lighting project.


      ok, back to Devon's topic... sorry to hijack...

    • December 29, 2019 12:30 PM EST
    • So, Jim would the one shown in previous post be too thin? .0015 

    • December 28, 2019 11:55 PM EST
    • Devon: I use steel shim (.003 I think) with the crimper and then rust it with muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide. stop the rust with matte clear coat. Learned how to do this from Dennis Rayon [link].


      Here's what his looks like:



    • December 28, 2019 8:19 PM EST
    • Devon Sinsley said:

      So here is what I came up with. Using heavy duty aluminum foil and a jig I made out of some scraps of corrugated styrene sheet I had. Trim the foil to width (3/4") and then just place it on the jig line up the little slider with the grooves in the base and run it back and forth a couple times. Take it off and use the side of the jig to trim to length 3". Makes a 36" by 12' panel.


      The side for trimming length has a groove cut in it to guide the knife. Works pretty slick.



      You will be modeling Amtrak before long !

    • December 28, 2019 8:10 PM EST
    • Devon, I’ve used steel shim stock in the fiskers crimper with good success. I’m not sure of the thickness currently, I think it’s .002. I’m out of town at the moment so I can’t check. I last used it on the cookhouse I built in the Mik challenge in 2018. 

      Edit: I checked my order history with McMaster Carr and it is in fact .002 steel shim stock. 

    • December 28, 2019 7:56 PM EST
    • I have thought about using it in G but for my little jig and O scale I am not real sure how that would go. I do want to play with real steel in the Fiskers crimper and see what happens.

    • December 28, 2019 12:19 PM EST
    • Bill, It would need to be annealed to dead soft to overcome spring back. 


      I don't think an annealed shim would wear well.

    • December 27, 2019 1:06 PM EST
    • Dave Taylor said:

      Trim to length first, that way you don't mess up the corrugations when cutting.

      I tried that and it made it hard to hold onto. With them long I have a piece to hold and smash and ruin and then when trimmed it came out nice. I will play with it and refine the technique I am sure.