Forums » Power and Sound

List of newest posts

    • December 4, 2019 2:55 PM EST
    • Took a little time to figure how to do videos.  Thanks for the messages and instructions.

       

       

      Tommy

      Rio Gracie

    • December 4, 2019 1:39 PM EST
    • Ah yea, now I hear it..................

       

    • December 4, 2019 11:57 AM EST
    • Put your ear to the screen.... doh!

    • December 4, 2019 8:11 AM EST
    • Funny I'm not hearing anything ....

    • December 4, 2019 1:09 AM EST
    • Thanks everyone.  Sound card is finished and the car sounds like horses.  Added the 8x1.5 12v battery pack.  Replaced the reed switch with a mini toggle switch.  Battery pack has an on/off switch and the toggle switch activates the sound.

       

       

      Tommy

      Rio Gracie

    • December 1, 2019 7:08 AM EST
    • Since I am DCC I would use the LM7809 and super caps to power a sound unit, and use a current limiting resistor and diode in the charging circuit.  This can work for track power DC users also.

       

    • November 30, 2019 1:38 PM EST
    • Put the sound card in with a reed switch to for the trigger.  It sounds great!!!!  But we have a minor problem.  A brand new 9 volt battery works for awhile.  But there is not enough volts to keep running the card. 

       

      I will be replacing the 9 volt battery with a 8x1.5 12v battery pack next week.

       

       

      Tommy

      Rio Gracie

    • December 2, 2019 4:08 PM EST
    •  

      Yes, I know I'm twisted, who ever heard of driving a Steam Locomotive with a Diesel control stand, eh?  But it actually works pretty well.

      Some more info and videos on my page.

      http://martinsant.net/?p=4232

       

       

       

    • December 1, 2019 6:55 PM EST
    • good

    • December 1, 2019 4:28 PM EST
    • Dan Pierce said:

      Your 'real' LGB sound car appears to have a replacement speaker in it.  None of my LGB sound cars have a speaker that tall.

      Dan, I/we concluded it isn't a "real" LGB sound car.  The sound card is an after-market addition, as is the speaker and hole in the floor. Someone converted it.
      Anyway, it is now sold so I can move on.

    • December 1, 2019 7:02 AM EST
    • Your 'real' LGB sound car appears to have a replacement speaker in it.  None of my LGB sound cars have a speaker that tall.

    • November 30, 2019 12:02 PM EST
    • Bill Barnwell said:

      Not sure about the sound board as I only saw 1 picture but it certainly doesn't look like an LGB board and the whistle trigger looks just like the ones that Starr electronics used in their sound systems

      (This is an LGB 4034.) In the interests of completeness, here's the interior.  I am happy to believe it's an after-market addition.  The stand-offs for the board are balsa (!) and there's a rubber cabinet stop on top of the speaker magnet for it to sit on. Green volume pot is at the bottom right, white chuff pot is along the top just right of center.

      I also added photos from a recent FB listing of a "real" LGB sound car, for comparison.

    • November 30, 2019 8:01 AM EST
    • The 4036 is LGB and never had sound.  LGB has a molded grill in all their sound cars, this one has a hollowed out circle/no grill.

      Also all the older car sounds (not engines)  I have seen by LGB has Eproms. 

      Ones without the Eproms are usually Digital (DCC) and not advertised as such, the Blue Chicken dance car is one example of a DCC sound car, the Red Chicken dance is DC only.

       

      Greg, as always feel free to add any info I give to your web site,and this goes for others and their web sites for all my postings.

       

    • November 29, 2019 2:28 PM EST
    • Not sure about the sound board as I only saw 1 picture but it certainly doesn't look like an LGB board and the whistle trigger looks just like the ones that Starr electronics used in their sound systems

    • November 29, 2019 1:47 PM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Bill what are you saying? It's not an LGB car, it's not an LGB sound board, or the triggers underneath are not LGB?

       

      Greg

      Fascinating.  It's definitely an LGB car. The trigger undernearth is clearly not LGB - very homemade, as is the hole for the speaker.  Google "LGB 4067 with Starr Sound" and you get some hits, but no active listings anywhere.

       

       

      I did find an LGB sound boxcar of more recent vintage but the pcb looks much different (modern green with ICs) and the speaker is smaller.

    • November 29, 2019 12:59 PM EST
    • Bill what are you saying? It's not an LGB car, it's not an LGB sound board, or the triggers underneath are not LGB?

       

      Greg

    • November 28, 2019 2:48 PM EST
    • Pete, I believe it was originally made by Starr electronics, 1 pot is for the sound volume and the other adjusts the chuff rate if hooked to the engine, you can still purchase something similar only updated with reel switches instead of the z bracket. Some decoders won't work with Pulse Width Modulation so not sure it will work with newer stuff check out  Chuff-Whistle-Bell sound for Model Trains, from HYDE-OUT MOUNTAIN LIVE STEAM  on ebay

    • November 28, 2019 10:43 AM EST
    • I also found the whistle works.  There's a crude spring and bent wire contact switch underneath, so anything sticking up will trigger the whistle.  It has a huge oval speaker so it doesn't sound bad.

       

       

      But the car won't fit with my original plan when I bought it, so it is now for sale for $69 including shipping to the lower 48.

    • November 28, 2019 2:47 PM EST
    • I had intended to finish the loco wiring but the sound boxcar got me to sort out the LiIon battery pack, and solder it up to the protection board.  Here's the battery holder, tools and the little red pcb.  The wiring diagram was printed from the website.

       

       

      The 18650 LiIon cells fit tightly in the battery box and this particular box was an old one with springs that had been compressed in my old boxcab.  Not only did the batteries not want to snug up to the positive end, they didn't even make contact in some places.

      The solution was to take some small brass escutcheon pins, wind a little solid wire around the end as a spacer, and put then through the center of the holes at the positive end.  The wire back to the protection board was soldered on the outside to hold it in place.  You can see the pin in this photo, and the rusty state of the springs.  What you can't see is that the bottom of the spring, where it sends a sprout off to the top of the next cell, isn't even touching the rim of the positive contact insert.  One finds this when the system doesn't work and you have to test each connection individually.  I soldered the spring to the insert and made the connection.

       

       

      Finally, the system works.  Those are regular 3.7V batteries, but fully charged they are 16.6V and the protection board cuts them off at about 9V as they discharge.  [Do yourself a favor - buy a decent battery box if you want to reproduce this.]

       

       

    • November 28, 2019 10:42 AM EST
    • Craig Townsend said:

      Humm beginning to think that I have a loose connection somewhere. Battery shows fully charged and it runs a motor block on its own under load. I have a sneaky feeling that it is the DPDT switch. I've already had to replace one...

      Bypass it for a test, it's only for reversing right?