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    • December 14, 2019 8:18 AM EST
    • Not to hijack Tommy's thread, but back in the day...when I still had a mighty outdoor railroad empire I fiddled around with sounds a bit. My favorite outcome was arranged over three of my boxcars. I installed one sound card from ITT and one from RAM inside what was to become the middle boxcar; each card had a different flange squeal recording. I then drilled a bunch of holes in  the floors of each end of the other two boxcars. I installed two speakers face-down on each end of those boxcars. I then connected one speaker from each sound card to each speaker, using micro connectors from Minatronics. As a result, each boxcar played the sound from each card on individual speakers, separated by the boxcar in the middle. Confused yet? ;)

      All coupled up, here's the result, a proper short fast Grande freight:

      http://www.largescalecentral.com/filesharing/file/view/14606/mov00886-mpg

      Sorry for the poor quality, but hey - it was 15+ years ago. In later years I built stockyards, and yes, my stock cars moo'd.

       

      Cheers,

      Matt

       

    • December 5, 2019 12:03 PM EST
    • Rooster ' said:

      That's great Tommy .....but now I wanna know what has the horses all stirred up ?

       

      Well the side of the Horse car is lettered 

       

      ATTENTION!

      LIVE WILD

      HORSES

       

      Tommy

      Rio Gracie

    • December 4, 2019 8:14 PM EST
    • That's great Tommy .....but now I wanna know what has the horses all stirred up ?

    • December 13, 2019 8:26 AM EST
    • Seems like a great application for iphone speakers, now if more folks would gut their iphones for the speaker the world might be a better place

    • December 12, 2019 8:29 PM EST
    • .

       

         

    • December 12, 2019 8:25 PM EST
    • I searched the website that you listed on your signature "which we must be sure to visit" but I found nothing on this build  ?

      Do you have any updates on this ?

       

       

       

       

       

      Edited for punctuation

    • December 11, 2019 7:34 PM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      I did find a way to use small speakers hidden in a cab roof, and made up for their small size by using several in a styrene baffle:

       

       

       

       

      Nice Work Greg !

       

      Do you have a tutorial on how "You" built that ?

    • December 11, 2019 5:33 PM EST
    • I did find a way to use small speakers hidden in a cab roof, and made up for their small size by using several in a styrene baffle:

       

       

    • December 11, 2019 4:25 PM EST
    •  

      Thanks to all for your comments. I like bass sound so the iPhone speaker idea is out. I'll check out some of your other ideas, I currently use G Scale Graphics 3" speakers in my tender mounted systems and they sound great!

    • December 10, 2019 9:13 PM EST
    • I've used them in some HO installations, and they're very good for the size. In a room full of HO scale locos, it's going to give very good frequency response compared to other "typical" HO speakers. Put them in a room full of large scale locos, and they'll be lacking. As mentioned above, the laws of physics are against you. 

       

      Later,

       

      K

    • December 9, 2019 11:55 AM EST
    • The very small speakers like cell phone speakers can give a lot of volume, but getting bass is difficult, the physics demands larger diameter driver "cone" and/or air volume.

       

      The 1" speaker has a long throw, thus displacing more air, which means more "sound". Just like in cars, "their ain't no substitute for cubic inches" in the long run.

       

      Greg

    • December 9, 2019 7:30 AM EST
    • For thicker plastic I use the laundry detergent cups and I insert foam in them.  Use these in the LGB sound cars as it greatly improves the base sound.

       

    • December 9, 2019 5:54 AM EST
    • David Palmeter said:

      I want to add MyLocoSound to a Kalamazoo 0-4-0T and it looks like inside the cab roof is the best place for the speaker. Has anyone tried an iPhone speaker? They are flat and highly evolved, I assume.

      Never used an iPhone speaker but have installed Mylocosound in a couple of locos.

      Mylocosound  requires an 8 ohm speaker I used one of these mounted in the cab roof of an LGB Stainz which is a similar size to your loco.

      I mounted it on a cutdown aerosol can lid to make a baffle to improve the sound.

      https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1W-8-Ohm-Metal-Housing-Round-Internal-Magnet-Speaker-Loudspeaker-50MM/174064748012?hash=item28871145ec:g:sq8AAOSwDkFdpHmr

    • December 8, 2019 10:07 PM EST
    • The HO scale guys swear by them as the best speaker for the buck. Now for large scale, I think you could get bigger.

    • December 8, 2019 9:32 PM EST
    • I want to add MyLocoSound to a Kalamazoo 0-4-0T and it looks like inside the cab roof is the best place for the speaker. Has anyone tried an iPhone speaker? They are flat and highly evolved, I assume.

    • December 6, 2019 7:22 AM EST
    • While the motor block has the front wheel driven by the rear axle/gear, one must remember the single small plastic axle gear takes all the motor force to drive the engine and cars behind it.  I have seen many failures of this rear axle gear.

    • December 5, 2019 9:11 AM EST
    • The motor only drives the rear axle.

      Well yes, but there are connecting rods driving the front axle.  However, I take your point - it is cute but not the most powerful device on the rails!  I'll restrict it to the gons that don't have heavy paver loads.

       

    • December 5, 2019 7:45 AM EST
    • Be very careful about how much weight your are pulling with that LGB  drive system.  The motor only drives the rear axle.  I limit my chloe to 3 frr cars max which have passengers and LGB frr wheel sets.  I use LGB metal wheels as these are rims of metal and are not very heavy.

    • December 4, 2019 6:18 PM EST
    • Well, the sound boxcar was disposed of, so back to work on the LGB20140.  First order of business was to finish the chassis wiring.  As the whole chassis comes apart very easily, I opted to put a DPDT slide switch inside over the front pcb where there is plentyof room.  On this pic you can see the back of it.  The feed from the tender then passes along the top, with a couple of judicious slots cut in the chassis.  The biggest squeeze was in the middle, over the metal crossbar, where it snugs up to the body.  I filed as much as I could with the dremel, and even sanded down the wires!

       

       

      After that, it was pretty easy to close it all up and paint the wires where they exit.  I did re-route the speaker wires closer to the chassis to make them less visible, which meant taking the coal box off and drilling a new hole.  So here's the motor and the speaker feed.

       

       

      Then back to the gondola. I fitted another slide switch in a corner but it is over the crossbar of the underframe and I think it will have to go somewhere else.  The battery pack takes up plenty of room so I was reluctant to fit it in the middle.  And there is nowhere to put the charging jack in the gon as the underside is completely obstructed by wheels, crossbars, etc.  So I carved a space in the underside bar and fit the charging socket sideways with a metal clamp to hold it in place.

       

       

      Here's the side view. I doubt it will be visible once the gon is on the track.

       

       

      Finally, the wiring was all connected.  The battery attaches to the charging jack, which has an integral switch to disconnect the electronics when charging, via the barrier strip in the bottom left corner.  The battery feed then goes to the slide switch and back to another barrier strip where the Electronic Speed Control will be connected, and the output of that will go to the motor.  I put an LED across that to tell me when I have power turned on.

       

       

      Still got to fit the ESC and the sound card, when they turn up in the mail from RCS.  Probably it will need a clamp to stop the battery pack from falling out when the gon derails.