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    • April 17, 2020 3:09 PM EDT
    • David,

       

      This is an inspiring restoration.  Thanks for taking the time to detail each step.   I am plotting my "Rehabilitation of the Missile Sponges" some time in the indeterminant future, and this is a really cool study of the possible.

       

      Aloha,

      Eric

    • April 17, 2020 10:52 AM EDT
    • Ok, I have been remiss in posting to this thread. So since the last posting, I had pained the boiler with Krylon semi gloss black. Once that dried, I painted the light, and bases of the domes, with a few coats of my red craft paint.

       

       

      Once that dried,  Then came a few coats of green craft paint on the domes.

       

      And I started colouring in with my Bronze Sharpie. You can also see the brass tube I mounted into the the boiler, so I can reattach the stack.

      After the paint, and colouring the bands, builder's plate, and dome tops with the Sharpie, I did a trial assembly to see how things are looking.

       

       

      On the cab, I used a silver Sharpie to colour the aluminum window frame in the cab.

       

       

      I need to do another coat of black paint on the pilot beam. Once I did that, I started Devoning about the artwork on the cab and tender.

       

      The prototype artwork is partly done with applied printed artwork. I didn't want to do mine that way, since I thought it would look like I cheeped out. But the more I think about it, the more I am warming up to the idea, Its how the movie studio did it on the real locomotive, and it would be a lot easier for me to do it that way on the model.

       

       

    • April 8, 2020 9:43 AM EDT
    • I painted the pilot with Krylon ruddy brown primer. Then I painted on a few coats of my red craft paint, and once that dried, I gave it a coat of Krylon flat clear. Once the plot was done, then I assembled the chassis. I cleaned the black gunk off the axle bearings, and the gunk and paint over-spray off of the axles. Then I lubricated the axles with some Lubriplate. I coloured the crank pin bolts with my bronze Sharpie and assembled the chassis.

       

       

      You can see the wires from the motor, and frame, that will go to the DCC decoder.

       

      Then I realized that I had goofed. The Pilot beam is supposed to be black, as well as the top of the steam chest. Well, I will fix that when I use my chalkboard craft paint to paint the cab and smoke-box.

       

      After putting a drop of oil on the crank pins and cross-heads, I clipped an HO power pack to the motor, and ran the drive forward and backward. It runs smooth, and will even run at a very slow speed. Not that Tycos are known for their slow speed running characteristics.

    • April 7, 2020 8:04 PM EDT
    • After stripping the paint from the boiler, I carved off the feed water pipes. Molded on piping looks, well, molded on. I was going to carve off the air pump and replace that too, but I decided that was a "detail too far". Yes, I "borrowed" that phrase from someone here. Again, I am trying to achieve a good representation of the Cannonball, not a scale model. Then the boiler that got a coat of semi gloss, Krylon black.

       

      A few spokes in the drivers were miscast, I guess its either a defect in the mold, or there were air bubbles trapped in the mold. So I built up those areas with some super glue and baking soda. I was going to use JB Quick, but the one tube I had was partly dried and the stuff wouldn't mix up right. Once the super glue/baking soda patches set up hard, I carved them to shape, and then primed the drivers with Kylon ruddy brown primer. After the primer dried, I gave the drivers a few coats of red craft paint. After letting the craft paint dry for a couple of days, I coated the drivers with Krylon clear flat.

       

      The drive rods got a good coat of Krylon semi gloss black, and then I drew on them with my Bronze Sharpie.

       

       

       

    • April 7, 2020 9:19 AM EDT
    • Yes that looks way way better

    • April 6, 2020 11:25 AM EDT
    • On the Tyco pony trucks, they just used the same axles that they used in the trucks. So the axles extend beyond the wheels, and come to a point. That is another detail that just looks wrong to me. So I filed the axles flush with the wheels.

       

       

      Then I gave the wheels a coat of primer. On the left is a pony truck in it's original condition.

       

       

      Then I painted the face of the wheels with my red craft paint, and drew on the wheels with my bronze Sharpie.

       

      This is odd, I can't find the picture.

       

    • April 5, 2020 7:03 PM EDT
    • Success is a good thing; and a solidly engineered model sure makes success easier to achieve.

    • April 5, 2020 6:45 PM EDT
    • You are welcome Devon.

       

      I soaked the plastic parts in Pine Sol for a couple of days, taking them out from time to time to scrub the paint off the parts.

       

      The locomotive shell was black, then factory painted painted black, then the boiler jacket area was painted green. The cab was red, factory painted red, and then stamped with the artwork, and the tender shell was done the same way. The artwork came off after just an hour of soaking, the first coat of paint came off after a day, but it took 2 days to get it all off.

       

      Last year I had stripped and reassembled another 10 wheeler. It was a "prof of concept" prototype. Actually, it was to become the Hooterville Cannonball, but I like the "shake the box" kit look of it, so it runs naked at the shows.

       

      This locomotive proved that even without a traction tyre, the locomotive can not only still run, but can pull a decent train.

       

      Also, it proved that my home made, shorter draw-bar idea works just fine. As does my routing of the wires through the tender floor, and below the level of the draw-bar.

       

    • April 5, 2020 12:47 PM EDT
    • I like the bronze sharpie idea.

       

      This project works for sure. I could care less if its G HO Z or ride on. Jus as long as w all have something to share. Thanks David

    • April 4, 2020 3:44 PM EDT
    • The solid Tyco pilots, with the added "features" to them always bothered me. So I set out to modify the pilot. First I ground the back of the pilot thinner.

       

       

      Then I ground the extra "features" off the front of the pilot, and day-lighted the pilot. In the process, the center part broke out, so I reattached it and used a bit of strip-wood along the top to attach the broken out center part.

       

       

      Its not perfect by any means, but I am not going for an exact scale model, just a good enough representation.

    • April 4, 2020 3:01 PM EDT
    • Next I worked on the steam chest. The cylinders were cast with a slight bulge in the center. I guess that is so they would easily de-mold when they were cast. After filing the sides of the cylinders flat, I gave them a good coat of oxide red primer.

       

       

      Then I painted the ends brass. Ok, I didn't paint them, I drew on them with a Bronze coloured Sharpie.

       

      Then I painted the steam chest with craft paint.

       

       

       

      Once I was satisfied with the steam chest, I gave it a good coat of Krylon clear flat .

       

    • April 4, 2020 2:53 PM EDT
    • Of course while I have the bottom plate off to replace a driver, I clean the dried lubricant off the axles and axle bearings, and re-lube with some Lubriplate that found its way to my house one day. I also put a drop of oil on the crank pins and cross-head. Then I power the thing up and run it both directions to make sure there is no binding or odd noises. Once the drive passes inspection, then I can move on with the rebuild or bash.

    • April 4, 2020 2:47 PM EDT
    • Ok, Since Devon asked for it, I will start my thread on my kit-bashing of a Tyco 10 wheeler into the Hooterville Cannonball.

       

       

      As with all my Tyco rebuilds so far, I start with replacing the motor magnet with super magnets from Micro Mark. These magnets are much stronger then the original magnet, and cut the current draw of the motor nearly in half. I also adjust the bearing plates to remove most of the lash from the motor, and lube the motor bearings with a drop of oil. Then I power up the motor and run it both directions for a while till it settles down and will run at a nice slow speed. Most times these motors haven't turned for a few decades, so they need a little time to run the stiffness out of them.

       

       

      Then I replace the rear driver with one that does not have the traction tyre.

       

       

      The traction tyre stands proud of the tread, almost as far as the flange. This can cause derailments. To get the needed drivers, I purchased 2 "for parts" (trashed) Tyco Mikados. The Mikado uses the same drivers as the 10 wheelers, but none of the Mikado's drivers have a traction tyre. Only the first and last driver of the Mikado are flanged, but for the price of a junked locomotive, I can fix 2 10 wheelers.

       

      To isolate the motor from the frame, I put a layer of electrical tape on the bottom of the motor, and reattach the motor with a KaDee, Nylon, 2-56 screw, trimmed a bit for length.

    • April 17, 2020 11:38 AM EDT
    • The headlight top (cap), rear driver, and smoke-box front came from another basket case 10 wheeler. That one had also been broken, and the previous owner used generous amounts of tube glue to repair it. With the blobs of glue oozed down the outside of the boiler, that shell is trashed. But, with a purchase price of a few dollars, it was a good source of the odd bits that I needed to rescue this one.

       

      I haven't decided yet what number to put onto this one. I am thinking of 66, because the 1966 Tyco catalog is the oldest Tyco catalog I have seen that lists the 10 wheeler.

       

      As for a road name, I was going to letter it for the Union Pacific, so it can be assigned to my Union Pacific Roundhouse Sierra cars, but maybe it would be better to not put any road name on it, so it can fill whatever duty I want. The theme of my modules is a railroad museum, but I don't even want to put the museum name on the thing. Why not? Because I don't think "Ferroequine Historiology Cynosure" would fit well onto the thing.

    • April 17, 2020 11:16 AM EDT
    • After that, I masked off the domes and painted the boiler black, Once the black dried, I masked off the boiler and the lamp, and painted the smoke-box silver. I am glad that I have a decent stash of Krylon rattle cans.

       

       

      Then I painted the wheel rims white.

       

       

      And used my silver Sharpie to coluor in the headlight lens frame, and touch up the smoke-box front.

    • April 17, 2020 11:09 AM EDT
    • While working on my Hooterville Cannonball, I was also working on a rescue project on another ten wheeler. I need to have more then one project going at a time, so when I get to a point on one where I have to stop, to let glue, paint, or ink dry, I can keep working. My rescue project was a dropped ten wheeler. the pilot was bent, and the handrail mounts were broken. I cut the bent pilot off, and replaced it with a Cal-scale brass one. Then I took some brass tubing and replaced the broken handrail mounts.

       

       

      The one on the smoke-box runs all the way through the smoke-box. Once the glue had dried, I filed away most of the tube that was inside the smoke-box, so I can reinstall the boiler weight.

       

      I needed to replace the missing stack, so I "borrowed" a straight stack from another 10 wheeler and fabricated a new one from some plastic tubing.

       

      I heated the end of the tubing, then jammed a small screwdriver into the tubing. By pressing the handle of the screwdriver against the heated tubing, it caused the tubing to flair out evenly on the end of the tubing.

       

      Then I cut the tubing to length. To be honest, I made it a little bit longer than the original stack. Then I used a piece of brass tubing inserted into the base of the stack, and a hole in the boiler, to solidly remount the sack to the boiler.

       

    • April 4, 2020 6:52 AM EDT
    • Devon, I am myopic, so I just take off my glasses, turn on a good work light, and settle in. But when I am done, my eyes don't want to focus across the room for a few minutes.

       

      Forrest, thanks. I will get to the 4-4-0s eventually. I need to remotor them so I can stuff a DCC decoder into the tender. As for the Roundhouse kits, I bought way too many of them second hand.

       

      Them oldes Tyco 10 wheelers can pull, even without traction tyres.

    • April 3, 2020 11:36 PM EDT
    • Oh, 114 and train look good!

      In my HO days I found the AHM/IHC/Rivarossi 4-4-0 locomotives to be durable and reliable with my usage patterns.

      Same for the Mantua/Tyco old timers.

      It was not odd that a little bit of extra attention would improve their performance & that was okay by my interests.

      Also the 4-4-0 are fun to add details to or modify or kitbash in to power for freelance roads.

      I miss the MDC Roundhouse old time car kits, especially the passenger cars.

      --> There is a forum specifically for Tyco and Mantua HO trains, http://www.tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/default.asp

    • April 3, 2020 10:38 PM EDT
    • nice. Small. How do you see that stuff.

    • April 2, 2020 7:19 PM EDT
    • Boxes aren't necessary, I am not a "collector" I just play with trains.

       

      Good luck with the treatments.