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    • June 29, 2020 8:39 AM EDT
    • I have seen the can motor upgrades for the Tycos. But, the open frame motor with the new magnets, and with the excess motor lash fixed, run rather well on DCC. No, they will not perform like a $300 locomotive, but they also don't have to be run at Tyco speeds neither.

       

      I have several of the AHM 4-4-0s, and Bachmann 4-4-0s, and a bunch of can motors to upgrade them with. But working out the motor mounts, and all wheel power pick up, has become more of a challenge then I am willing to deal with at the moment.

       

      I could have isolated the motor brush the way you described, but I was afraid that over time the edge of the motor frame might cut through the insulation. It probably would not, but I wasn't sure. A package of nylon screws wasn't that expensive, and with 12 in a package I can upgrade 12 locomotives. Currently I think I have 10 running, and 4 more I am working on.

    • June 28, 2020 11:24 AM EDT
    • If you camp out on ebay, Mantua in the last days of operation started putting can motors in this style of motor set up.  They can be found with the angled mount and correct worm gear on the shaft from time to time.  I have one of the bumblebee DRG 12 wheelers.  Same boiler/cab/tender as the ten wheeler.  They are OO scale in physical size so the motor would fit in the cab.  These and the General 4-4-0 are about the only options out there if you want to model the pre 1900 era of railroading in the USA.  Sadly, no mfg's have paid attention to this era to give us a much better running model, outside of the new generation of Bachmann's 4-4-0 with a tiny pager motor in the boiler instead of the early tender drives.   Another option is the Rivarossi/AHM Casey Jones 4-6-0(vastly improved with a NWSL speed reduction regear kit), or their tender driven 4-4-0's.  But then you deal with deep flanges from those early models.    Great work on the Tyco/Mantua 4-6-0.   You do NOT have to isolate the whole motor from the frame, just BOTH motor brushes.  A piece of insulation stripped from some wire can be slid over the spring wire for the grounded motor brush, isolating it from the motor/locomotive's frame.  Then you can wire for DCC after doing the magnet job.  A new can motor obviously is the best option and they run sooooo much better with one.      Mike

    • May 19, 2020 6:40 PM EDT
    • Yep it goes against what was taught back in the day, but if that were the case think of all the dropped electronics devises that would be trash if not for a day or two in a bag of rice

    • May 19, 2020 5:56 PM EDT
    • David, that may be true. I just have an aversion to getting motors wet. Its a personal preference, or maybe a personality flaw, of mine.

    • May 19, 2020 7:04 AM EDT
    • All can be separated Dave, but soaking the armature will not hurt thing you just need to let it sit for a week or so, preferably after you blow dry it with an air gun, before you plug it in. Again YMMV

    • May 19, 2020 5:28 AM EDT
    • I haven't taken mine apart, so I don't know if the motor can be separated from the gears to soak the gears. The grease in the old Tycos can usually be cleaned off with Dawn dish-soap in water and a toothbrush.

    • May 18, 2020 8:05 PM EDT
    • I'd soak in dawn. it don't hurt wild life

    • May 18, 2020 7:47 PM EDT
    • Since we're talking Tyco rehabs, a question:

      While going through my boxed-up On30 projects Thursday and Friday I came across a Tyco pseudo-GG1-1 acquired somewhere in recent years. It was bought knowing it was complete but did not run.
      Took a break from my long dormant On30 project revival (one is on a Tyco/Mantua 4-wheel Plymouth mechanism) to dismantle the G and try to troubleshoot it.

      First problem is that whatever grease whoever applied who knows when has pretty much "grease-glued" the transmission.

      The effort required to remove and free the axles was exponentially more than reasonable.
      Was deeply concerned about breaking gear teeth but that seems to have not happened.

      I know things can be done about that on these, and even on full size internal combustion vehicles, but do not know what it is which can be done to this.


      What I do know is that scratch below on engineer window is really deep and will need filler.
      So, I might as well dunk the body in Scalecoat's "Wash Away" to strip all the paint.
      And if I'm going to do that, might as well add some pilot details and LED headlights ...

      ... IF ...

      ... the motor and transmission can be restored.

      So -->

      --> I am requesting advice on how to dissolve, loosen, clean, the "grease glue" wihtout damaging the lacquer insulation on the armature windings.

      [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900104576_c393fd05c1.jpg[/img]

      [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900411532_aa706a6c14.jpg[/img]

       

       

    • May 7, 2020 4:43 PM EDT
    • I was sidetracked with some yard work, I got the outdoor railroad's pond up and running for the year. I cut down all the dead plant stalks in the upper pond, A.K.A. marsh. I also dug out some of the peat from the upper pond, so, hopefully, it won't overflow as quickly. I also talked to a surveyor, I need my land surveyed, so I can get a permit, so I can put up a fence, to try and keep out the hoofed forest rats (deer).

       

      Also I have been fighting with decals on the tender one of my 10 wheelers. It took several applications of Micro Set to eliminate the silvering in the decals. The decals are old, very old, and they don't want to play nice. Then I clear coated the tender. The clear coat caused the base paint to crinkle. I guess I can't use Krylon clear coat over Krylon red.

       

      Anyway, one of the latest 10 wheelers I got up and running was originally a 12 wheeler (4-8-0)

       

      I wanted the 12 wheeler drive for another project. So I took a 10 wheeler chassis, filed the odd extra feature off the pilot, painted the wheel centers, pilot and steam chest Krylon gloss navy blue. The steam chest on the original 12 wheeler was silver, but it was all chipped and scratched. I didn't like the look of the silver steam chest, so I went with blue. The Krylon navy blue is a very close match for the blue that Tyco/Mantua used on the cab and tender. As with all my my 10 wheelers, I replaced the motor magnet, the rear driver (to eliminate the traction ring), replaced the headlight bulb with a yellow LED, and upgraded to DCC.

       

      This is the other one i finished (to this point).

       

      Now I have 2 black 10 wheelers (one gloss and this one that is flat) that I need to letter with  road names and numbers. I am sure I will come up with an idea for the road names eventually.

    • April 26, 2020 7:11 AM EDT
    • Well, the open frame motors in the Tyco/Mantua locomotives do benefit from replacing the magnets. Replacing the magnets reduces the current draw, and improves the low speed performance of the motors.

       

      Several "experts" have said that DCC decoders cannot be used on the old open frame motors, supposedly because those motors draw too much current. I haven't had any issues with my economy Digitrax decoders with these open frame motors.

    • April 25, 2020 8:45 PM EDT
    • I often wondered about putting decoders in my penn line steam engines. Never thought about replacing the magnet at the back of the motor. Most of those use much heavier pitman motors. I believe they are DC71 motors. They run so smooth to begin with but I thought the addition of a dcc decoder would be fun.

    • April 25, 2020 8:44 AM EDT
    • Vic Smith said:

      I got one of these, don't think I will ever do anything with it, interested?

       

      http://tycotrain.tripod.com/steamengines/id14.html

      Yes Vic. I am interested. PM me and maybe we can work something out.

    • April 20, 2020 9:23 PM EDT
    • I have heard various scales listed, but 1:76 sounds about right. Yea Ho is like 1:87.1, the .1 doesn't contribute much, so its usually ignored.

       

      Yea, the test was successful. So now I have a couple more in the works. I wanted to get my AHM/Rivarrossi and Bachmann 4-4-0s up and running, but replacing the motors needs a bit more engineering then I want to devote at this time.

    • April 20, 2020 9:12 PM EDT
    • I got one of these, don't think I will ever do anything with it, interested?

       

      http://tycotrain.tripod.com/steamengines/id14.html

    • April 20, 2020 10:41 AM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Yes, the Tyco model is based on Sierra number 3, but its in a slightly larger scale than HO. last night I ran the thing on my test track.

      Wonder if that might be OO's 4mm/foot, 1/76 scale, instead of HO's 3.5mm/foot, 1/87 point something usually ignored, scale?

      Sounds like the test counts as successful.

    • April 26, 2020 11:52 PM EDT
    • Thanks, John, but this is no better than the great wood work you do.  Need to see that tower in the flesh..........whenever the world comes back.....l.

    • April 24, 2020 10:18 AM EDT
    • Very nice work, Dennis! I'm ashamed of mine now.

    • April 22, 2020 12:42 PM EDT
    • In addition to the SWC3DBackshop's lokie kit, Etsy internet, (earlier post in forum), I also obtained 2 of their RTR flat cars.  Once again, crisp good looking models.  They come assembled with ball bearing journals.  Metal wheels give end product a nice, "heft."  Track well.  Not able to leave well-enough alone, I set out to add something to personalize them for my railroad.  (Even though they are quite fine as delivered)  So I first attached Ozark 7111 stake pockets.  In order for the pockets to have a full length attachment, I added a strip of polystyrene along under the side sills.  This can be seen in one of the photographs.  Paint is Tamiya T-6 matt black spray-can paint.  The wood decking is Cedar ripped with wild abandon on my 10" Delta Contractor's table saw.  Glued down using Zap-a-Gap pink bottle, "thin," adhesive after, "roughing up," the Resin deck surface.  I admit I used Zap-a-Gap for fastening because it was sitting in front of me.  Some of you professionals may know of a better adhesive?  For me, it worked.  A couple, "boards," were naturally warped and the resulting, "rise," on one end I intentionally left that way.  After all, my railroad often hires cheap, low I.Q. labor, (that's me), and use lumber, "seconds," off the local saw mill's green chain;  no attempt was made for fancy decking.  This is a working railroad.  I experimented with several coloring solutions I had kicking around the basement.  Not sold on any until my RR employees said they'd created a good preservative around the shop by mixing up 50/50 diesel fuel and creosote.  Still about giving, I almost tripped over a little bottle of, "Minwax Wood-Sheen Rubbing Oil Stain.  Rosewood flavor.  Hmmmm.  Tried it;  used it.  Looks diesel-creosote'ie to me.  Then I took a fine point black ink Sharpie and made little dots on boards to simulate fasteners.  Model comes with coupling links and pins which work just fine.  Easy now to make side boards and any number of interesting loads will find their way on board.  I also recently noticed that SWC3DBackshop is now offering various loads.  I like my flat cars.  

    • April 22, 2020 5:30 AM EDT
    • Hey, it's just like Gn15 except bigger! That is a nicely done model. Doing a Google image search for feldbahn, if you haven't already done that, will bring up a lot of photos to pull ideas from.

    • April 21, 2020 11:49 PM EDT
    • I posted my initial entry into this Resin kit world here back on March 13th.  I purchased the kit on-line from Etsy, seller SWC3DBackshop.  I won't repeat the kit details I described in that post other than to say I continue to be impressed with the quality of the kit.  Crisp, substantial, well designed pieces that fit with precision.  There has emerged a quiet but intriguing band of 7/8th followers roving the back roads here in Northeastern Washington state in the dark of night.  They apparently invaded my otherwise dedicated attention to normal, "G scale."  I think that is how I happened to find myself immersed now in 7/8th.  Sneaky, they are.  However, I have found myself having more fun with this kit and a few of this manufacturer's other offerings more than I can remember in a long time.  My very first Resin kit, and I found it very easy to work with.  With luck, photos will accompany this post.  I'll repost Joe McCummins photo of the kit pieces as delivered, followed by progress photos of my locomotive.  I have completed about 85% of it, having only small details to add, some of which are my own pieces.  Note that if the kit is built as delivered, it looks very good, "as is."  I did add friction bearing journals box covers.  That is because I like friction bearing journal box covers.....   I also added "tool boxes," under the running boards in the rear, one on each side of the locomotive.  Good place to throw chains, Misc. tools, and various other trappings including the open-end wrench shown in the photograph.  This location, both fore and aft, would also be an ideal spot to substitute sanders in place of tool boxes.  One sander in each corner of the lokie.  Perhaps sanders may become available.  A re-rail frog is another possibility, and on and on.  That's what i like about the model - it is easy to dream up simple things to add. 

      My goal was to operate this locomotive RC, using the new Revolution DCC hand held transmitter and their, "in-the-loco," receiver.  These are their 59xxx series products.  The receiver allows me to interface my 14.8V LiPo battery pack with my ZIMO MX644C decoder mounted on the ZIMO screw terminal adapter board as sound extensions of the Revo product.  Speaker is mounted just inside the lokie's grill/radiator, projecting sound forward.  Battery pack is split, with one sitting on each side of the interior of the engine compartment.  Revo receiver sits atop of battery pack.  Inside the cab, the, "instrument/control panel," is removable, and the empty space within easily gobbles up the ZIMO decoder.  Now I only need to tuck the wiring in for a more tidy installation.  This arrangement allows the engine hood to be slid sideways, and once off, the receiver can be easily unplugged and taken elsewhere for use with another locomotive application.  To power down the locomotive I unplug the battery inside the engine space.  A switch for that purpose would be an improvement, - I just have not done that yet, if I do it at all.  One photo should show the lokie underside where added weights can be seen.  I got the weights from my local tire shop.,  They are, "tape-weights," that were removed from customers' cars and thrown in a bucket for recycling.  Flat cars that appear in some photos are also from the same seller, and quite nice.  I will try a separate post for them.  I am extremely pleased with the result of having spent some enjoyable hours building this kit.  I may add some lettering, plus whatever else I think of.  For now, I hope this post is useful.  At least it shows how far it has come.  I like this Kritter a lot and the size makes life really easy when I want to take it and a couple cars to another Club member's home to run, rather than a large, heavy locomotive and cars.