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    • June 17, 2020 6:19 PM EDT
    • Jon Radder said:

      Nice. What control system are you using?  C-19 sparkie or steam?  Oh, you said servos, so live steam.  RCS Tx/rx ?

      Yes, the C-19 is live steam. It always had the Orange, so I put that back inside the tender. Found some bent pins, but all is now well and it is ready to go to a new home.

      I left my RCS TX-3 in Florida (accidentally) so the TX is a standard DX6i. Amazing it still works after all these years, but then it doesn't come out of hibernation very often. I do have a couple of RCS Cobra 24V ESCs for my electrics - one is in the little Feldbahn engine.

       

      I soldered up a cable for the micro-RX this afternoon as part of my testing of the RXs. I also printed the instructions, which turned out to be wrong - they had the 4 small sockets labelled the opposite of the cables (black/+ at the opposite end.) So I assumed the engineer knew what he was doing and tried it anyway. The instructions also pointed me to the tiny 'bind' button (it's visible near the 3 power pins in the front.) I was wondering where the bind plug would go! Very interesting, and it worked.

       

       

    • June 17, 2020 3:58 PM EDT
    • Nice. What control system are you using?  C-19 sparkie or steam?  Oh, you said servos, so live steam.  RCS Tx/rx ?

    • June 17, 2020 3:02 PM EDT
    • I have to put the receiver (RX) back in my C-19 tender, and I received 2 packages from my favorite supplier recently, so I figured you guys might like a photo.

       

       

      I've used the Orange RX before, and I think this one came out of something else, as my pal asked me if I had a use for the 'battery' thingie. Nothing special about the Spektrum except the neat pin layout. The interesting one will be the micro RX in the foreground, which is (presumably) designed for small drones, etc. It came with the cables which will have to be connected to servos - good job I have some spare extender cables. Now I have to find out how to make it "bind" to my DX6i.

      Stay tuned.

    • June 16, 2020 10:34 AM EDT
    • Derailed said:

      "Keep in mind that your DCC's track power voltage drops about 1.5 volts on the outputs in your DCC decoder."

      Is this due to a bridge rectifier inside the decoder?  1.5v is pretty close to the voltage drop across the 2x diodes in a BR.  I assume the decoder has some form of BR for accessories such as lights and smoke.  

      One of these days I will take an electronics class at the local college.  

      Its not a bridge rectifier, at least not for the motor output, its an H bridge. For lights and such it would be a rectifier circuit of some kind. Also, on the switchable outputs (lights, smoke), there is also a switching transistor in the circuit. So yes, your actual voltage output would be reduced by the forward bias voltages of these components.

    • June 16, 2020 10:16 AM EDT
    • Derailed - I'm not an electronics engineer so can't answer your question.  Someone like Greg Elmassian will need to chime in on that one.

      I install a lot of Massoth XLS DCC/DC Sound Decoders.  Massoth Technical Department informs me that the outputs on these decoders is not DC or DCC Voltage.  Instead it's pulse modulation with 25 volts (peak voltage) and smaller for lower voltage.  So, they advised me to use an RMS Multimeter in AC mode with load to measure the voltage outs from their decoders. So I don't use the RRamp to measure these decoder's outputs; I use the RRamp to measure the DCC voltage from my Command Stations to the track.....and amps.

      I'd be curious if Greg or others know whether this approach is used by other DCC Decoder manufacturers, such as ESU, Soundtraxx, etc.

      Tom

       

    • June 16, 2020 9:57 AM EDT
    • "Keep in mind that your DCC's track power voltage drops about 1.5 volts on the outputs in your DCC decoder."

      Is this due to a bridge rectifier inside the decoder?  1.5v is pretty close to the voltage drop across the 2x diodes in a BR.  I assume the decoder has some form of BR for accessories such as lights and smoke.  

      One of these days I will take an electronics class at the local college.  

    • June 15, 2020 12:58 PM EDT
    • Thank you.  I have to wait until next month as I bought a new Pustefix car for a price I couldn't pass up.  Need to replenish my Train Stipend.  ;)  

    • June 14, 2020 9:05 AM EDT
    • Derailed said:

      Not sure if this is the correct location for this question.

      I plan to buy the RRAmpmeter.  I see they now offer a version 4.   It says it handles DCC of 18-20A.  Usually I see ranges of 1-20A or up to 20A.  I am running 10A Brutus.  Does anyone have the version 4?  Will it read down below 10A?  

      Hi Derailed - You received your answer.  I do have the RRamp V.4 and find it a great tool.  Let me know if you have any questions after you start using it.  Keep in mind that your DCC's track power voltage drops about 1.5 volts on the outputs in your DCC decoder.  This is a good data point to consider when you're adjusting your DCC decoder's outputs for things such as lighting, smokers, etc.  Also, when measuring voltage outputs on your decoders, do so under "load", i.e., have the device connected to the decoder's output, e.g., light, motor, smoker, etc.

       

    • June 6, 2020 10:54 PM EDT
    • Glad you got an answer for your question.

    • June 5, 2020 10:34 PM EDT
    • Well, I got an answer from Tony's Trains tech.  Said it does go down to 0.1A.  I figured but for $100 I wanted to be certain.  Didn't want to have to ship it back.  

    • June 5, 2020 8:06 PM EDT
    • I pull 4 amps on my Crest Elite running what I run as the analog meter shows it.

      However it works

    • June 5, 2020 7:59 PM EDT
    • Bob Cope said:

      My best recommendation is to check with Greg Elmassian here https://www.elmassian.com/

      bump

    • June 5, 2020 7:58 PM EDT
    • Rooster said:
      Bob Cope said:

      My best recommendation is to check with Greg Elmassian here https://www.elmassian.com/

      Perhaps you should recommend searching LSC first ?

      Then perhaps you should go with Bob Copes recommendation ?

       

    • June 5, 2020 12:16 AM EDT
    • I have searched here.   

    • June 4, 2020 8:06 PM EDT
    • Bob Cope said:

      My best recommendation is to check with Greg Elmassian here https://www.elmassian.com/

      Perhaps you should recommend searching LSC first ?

    • June 4, 2020 8:19 AM EDT
    • My best recommendation is to check with Greg Elmassian here https://www.elmassian.com/

    • June 3, 2020 11:35 AM EDT
    • Not sure if this is the correct location for this question.

      I plan to buy the RRAmpmeter.  I see they now offer a version 4.   It says it handles DCC of 18-20A.  Usually I see ranges of 1-20A or up to 20A.  I am running 10A Brutus.  Does anyone have the version 4?  Will it read down below 10A?  

    • June 15, 2020 9:23 PM EDT
    • That is a big cigar.  I think I would turn green before I finished it.  Or just waste about 12".  I once had a 9" torpedo that was about 1.5" thick.  Took me 3 sittings to finish that thing off.  I know, you aren't supposed to relight a cigar but I was in Iraq and cigars weren't easy to come by.  My tolerance is more of a Robusto length.  I got my wife to switch from cigarettes to cigars so I could have a full time smoking buddy.   ;)

    • June 14, 2020 8:54 AM EDT
    • I got it solved.......got some help from a long-time ESU large scale decoder user/installer.......the Massoth Pulsed Smoker now works great with the ESU 5 XL.

    • June 3, 2020 4:07 PM EDT
    • I use the "warm white" tape lights Bob, in rolls of 16' for about $10. Cut to length and solder the wires on.

       

      The silicone waterproofing is fine; but for additional application of yellow or orange sharpie (or translucent craft paint, I've heard of), you might use the non-waterproof and apply the colorant to the LED's directly, and, I suppose, lay a bead of clear RTV over that for waterproofing and color fixing.