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    • November 24, 2019 7:07 PM EST
    • SINTRA.....Much easier to work with and glue up.  You can even carve and texture the outside to look like brick, or random stone, or cut stone.  It is what I have used to make the master stones for the Mik's build challenge cut stones.  

      Do a  search for Ray Dunakin, and learn of the remarkable things he has done using it...  Truly a master of the medium.

       

      Dave

       

    • November 24, 2019 2:45 PM EST
    • Ah, I stand corrected!  It turns out I HAVE used coroplast, I just didn't realize it.   But, I wasn't fond of it, as it required me to make the dimensions correspond to the "flutes'.   So there's basically a grain and if you need to make a cut diagonally or on a curve, it's going to be a lot more difficult than using PVC - which, I don't think really has a grain at all.   Easy to work with to get the dimensions you really want - not dictated by the material.  Jon has the right knowledge for this!

    • November 24, 2019 1:45 PM EST
    • I work in the sign industry and use these products daily.

       

      COROPLAST (corrugated plastic sheet).

      Sign industry uses both 4mm and 10mm thick sheets.  4mm is very easy to cut using a utility knife. If you are going to be cutting a lot, a Coro Cutter that has guides for the flutes makes it go fast.  For 10MM cuts we generally use a panel saw as it is pretty rigid.  For structure substrate, the 4mm makes for fast construction using simple tools.  End result is very light and may require added weight. Gluing can be tricky. I prefer a good quality double faced tape (3M VHB if you can afford it) over glue for Coroplast

       

      Lots of folks use it - search the forums. I think Ken Brunt has posted threads on methods.

       

      FOAMED PVC SHEET (Sintra, Azek & Komatex are just a few brand names)

      Available in many thicknesses. Sign industry uses 3mm, 6mm, 12mm, 19mm and 25mm (Roughly 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1") for various applications.  For structures 19mm makes a very robust substrate. Cutting anything thicker than 6mm requires a saw. Cuts and drills with wood tools. Ken's recent Mancos Depot thread shows his methods. All but the thinnest can take nails or screws. If you use screws, don't over torque as the threads will rip out. Lowes sells an Azek glue. Works great but it's pricey. A generic PVC Pipe cement costs a lot less and will work.

       

      For outdoor use, I think I'd probably suggest the foamed PVC board in 6mm or thicker as the superior product, It does cost more . If you have a local sign shop, you can beg for  scraps.

    • November 24, 2019 10:04 AM EST
    • Joe,

      Sounds like a fun project!   While I have just used generic PVC, I'm not sure it makes a lot of difference as none of them rot, plus they will be covered up anyway.   I can recommend a good exterior paint for the brick.   I've had very good luck with the custom samples you can get at Home Depot.  (Don't do Lowes as their samples are INTERIOR based).   When I built my firehouse I just used some PVC sheets I bought online.     Best of luck - I'm sure you will enjoy this!

    • November 24, 2019 9:27 AM EST
    • I have decided to take on a project to scratch build a firehouse for my club's holiday train display (WVMGRS at Brookside Gardens). (My first scratchbuild, btw)

      I would like to build a core structure, and then cover the core with a brick texture. Using this handy ppt: (https://piedmontgardenrailway.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/BUILDING-OUTDOOR-STRUCTURES.pdf),

      I decided that Coroplast or Sintra would be the best material(s) to use for the core, as they are easy to work with.

       

      So my questions are:

      - What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?

      - Does one have advantages over the other?

      - What do people prefer, and why?

    • July 30, 2019 8:31 PM EDT
    • after i had broken dozens of drills in the 1 to 1.5 mm range (about 1/25 inch), somebody recommended "IRVIN" drills.

      they cost double, but last more than thrice.

    • July 30, 2019 8:14 PM EDT
    • John,

       

      I got a set from "Bill the tool guy" at ECLSTS a few years back, and it's the same as this one, which has #61-80. Don't use it a lot, but it's worked when I have.

       

      I doubt it's as good quality as other ones, but the nice thing is that there's 4 or 5 of each bit in each little tube.

       

      FWIW, the blue plastic MM set ($20) appears to go for $4-$7, depending on how fast you want it, and with pin vise included, on Ebay. [link] If those are better quality, or if you're clumsy like me, you might get two or three sets... 

       

      [edit] Are you drilling metal, or wood & plastic? And how deep?

      Cliff

    • July 30, 2019 6:53 PM EDT
    • David I do the same works great on plastics and it doesn't elongate the hole, BB 

    • July 30, 2019 4:37 PM EDT
    • If I am drilling in wood or plastic, I take a piece of piano wire and sharpen the end to a flat chisel point, then taper the edges of the chisel point in partway. It works almost as well as a real drill bit, and I can resharpen it as many times as I need. It doesn't work well at all on metal.

    • July 30, 2019 12:15 PM EDT
    • John,

      Check out Tacoma Screw. They have a place in the Spokane Valley. You might need to special order the dril bits.

    • July 30, 2019 11:49 AM EDT
    • I've used Micromark's drill bits for years since I learned to resharpen them on the side of a separating disc.

    • July 30, 2019 11:14 AM EDT
    • If any one of you guys use them, I need a source of high quality *60 to *80 drill bits. I ordered 2 sets on Amazon and can only use half of them. (60 to 70)

      The tinier ones have no points and are useless. I left them a 1 star review.

      I suppose I could get Clevelands but I don't want to break my bank account.

    • June 30, 2019 6:26 AM EDT
    • Yesterday one of the newspapers mentioned APHIDS and what they excrete can strip the paint from a car if it is left underneath trees (particularly the Sycamore ) - as there are some types of aphids partial to that tree).....

      Apparently the excreted stuff is sticky..turns black and the paint soon deteriorates!

      (Which reminds me..my old Triumph 1500 lasted years without  a spot of rust mainly due to parking next the  aircraft apron of the airport I worked at..unburnt jet fuel laid a film over the car preventing rust...just needed the occasional wash and repolish (like once a year). 

       

      Who would have thought bi carbonate of soda (baking soda) would strip paint off if used in a suitable airbrush. (Badger has one) but cheaper available on EBAY.

    • June 30, 2019 6:23 AM EDT
    • Ross Mansell said:

      Hey Max..how about this then     It shows enamel on model small scale car being stripped.

      https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Paint-from-Metal-and-Plastic-Models-with-Dettol

      Yep...DETTOL!!   (  For US readers - it  is an anti-sceptic liquid   (& needs dilution before medical use in most cases.)

        I believe it is one of the ingredients that does the job.

      Plenty of info on Googs if you query Derrol paint stripping.  Seems the plastic kit aeromodellers use it......

      I have used it with some success  on a large scale wagon....but it can turn  out a bit expensive for full immersion...although it can be diluted!

      Just found this  on a forum about DETTOL  &   models/stripping.... :-

      I believe the active ingredient, stripping wise, is Pine Oil and this is why it does the same job as Simple Green as it too contains Pine Oil. 

       

       

      One wonders just how this method was discovered!

      Ah, so is that why some folks say they use Pine Sol to strip paint? I never tried it, but now I just might have to.

    • June 30, 2019 4:42 AM EDT
    • Very interesting Ross, one to add to the list. I have a bottle of the stuff hanging around, I'll give it a go sometime. Some years ago a chemistry teacher of my acquaintance gave me the low down on why Sodium Hydroxide would be so effective in the removal of oil based paints and similar - hence its inclusion in a lot of preparations that fulfilled that purpose. I forget now what he told me, as ever was the case for me in science classes (my father had a degree in chemistry, shame on me !).

       

      I note that a lot of "specialist" providers of various preparations for cleaning and removal of substance, and other things, are loath to put in plain English what are the active ingredients of whatever potion with an extraordinary mark up they are pushing. For obvious reasons. These days one cannot avoid those stories, now in most tabloids, of people who exclaim. " How I cleaned a whole house with nothing but a lemon, a tin of bicarb' of soda and a bottle of white vinegar and added £30K to its value !". Perhaps there is a need for central database (sticky topic ?) where these more basic economical alternatives to common hobbyists issues can be listed ? Remember the days you could walk into a British chemist shop and only had to look for the suffix "BP" to know you were not having to pay for a lot of someone else's top heavy marketing budget and getting a good no nonsense product that would "do the job" ? Have I pushed this a little to far away from the OP's original topic ? Sorry.

    • June 30, 2019 3:15 AM EDT
    • Hey Max..how about this then     It shows enamel on model small scale car being stripped.

      https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Paint-from-Metal-and-Plastic-Models-with-Dettol

      Yep...DETTOL!!   (  For US readers - it  is an anti-sceptic liquid   (& needs dilution before medical use in most cases.)

        I believe it is one of the ingredients that does the job.

      Plenty of info on Googs if you query Derrol paint stripping.  Seems the plastic kit aeromodellers use it......

      I have used it with some success  on a large scale wagon....but it can turn  out a bit expensive for full immersion...although it can be diluted!

      Just found this  on a forum about DETTOL  &   models/stripping.... :-

      I believe the active ingredient, stripping wise, is Pine Oil and this is why it does the same job as Simple Green as it too contains Pine Oil. 

       

       

      One wonders just how this method was discovered!

    • June 29, 2019 2:39 AM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      the original factory black on most engines (Bachmann in my case) is just plastic or is it painted black?

      Yes it could be, or not. You will know when you disassemble it and the inside of the parts is or is not black. The Bachmann locomotives I have are black plastic, but as soon as I say that all black ones are black plastic, I will be wrong.

       

      Partially correct - A lot of black locos, like Bachmann's, will have some form of lacquer coating, as with a semi-matt/satin finish to get rid of that "plasticky" appearance. So be aware if re-painting. I have noticed though that on some parts, like trucks and some superstructure on their tank cars, they do not bother. In itself overcoating an existing paint/lacquer finish should not be a problem so long as you check for your chosen paint finish's and undercoat's compatibility with the existing one. The only problem to consider then is that you do not coat too heavily and obliterate any fine detail.

       

      Regards Ross's suggestion of the UK found product "Modelstrip". This is a product primarily intended  for the removal of oil based paints, such as enamels, and similar finishes on styrene plastics. Its "active" ingredient is Sodium Hydroxide. Careful if selecting a product sold as a household cleaner for an alternative where this compound is  included, it can be formulated to be quite caustic - like oven cleaners - and could damage plastics. Sadly, in the UK, household product makers stopped using this as a base for their products a few years ago cutting off cheaper alternatives to the Modelstrip product. Phoenix Precision Paints, also from the UK, make a similar fluid product rather than a paste. Perhaps similar is available in the US ?

       

    • June 28, 2019 4:15 PM EDT
    • the original factory black on most engines (Bachmann in my case) is just plastic or is it painted black?

      Yes it could be, or not. You will know when you disassemble it and the inside of the parts is or is not black. The Bachmann locomotives I have are black plastic, but as soon as I say that all black ones are black plastic, I will be wrong.