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    • January 25, 2020 10:21 PM EST
    • Pics?

      Or you know what....

    • January 25, 2020 12:44 PM EST
    • Absolutely 

    • January 25, 2020 2:13 AM EST
    • Is it done yet?

    • January 25, 2020 12:16 AM EST
    • Yea, Bruce builds some nice switches, have quite a few of them in operation on the Shasta Pacific.

    • January 24, 2020 11:01 PM EST
    • Running out of excuses 


      As noted above I'm getting low on excuses for putting some track down.  One of my big holdups has been switches.  Well, thanks to Bruce over at SwitchCrafters, I can no longer use that one.



      Received my order of 6 switches today.  Bruce does a great job, so if anyone is in need of quality switches, check out SwitchCrafters.




    • January 25, 2020 12:55 PM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Snip" A suggestion of where the 2 stub rails approach the frog, these rails can move a bit and short to the frog, a trimmed piece of a credit card will keep this from happening." Snip




      Agreed; It can be seen looking at the last picture which included the F3 loco pilot, the turnout installed in the layout is fitted with little black plastic insulators.  I glued in thin strips of ABS plastic and then cut off the surrounding excess.

      -Ted D

    • January 24, 2020 8:19 PM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      I'm sure it is a typo, where you said "sanding of the swing rail aces".... what did you mean to put there? (also called point rails I think)


      Yankee terminology ....

    • January 24, 2020 5:27 PM EST
    • Interesting the varied experiences.


      Funny, I have never seen a well used #6 that did not have that weird looking wear on the frog.


      Also, I think Jon, if you look very closely at your rolling stock as it goes through the frog, you will see the wheel drop down lower than the rail head. Even Aristo made these inserts for their #6.


      I did not experience derailments for this issue, but noticed the train made a lot more noise through the switch, when I got close I could see the issue of wheels dropping into the frog.


      A suggestion of where the 2 stub rails approach the frog, these rails can move a bit and short to the frog, a trimmed piece of a credit card will keep this from happening.



    • January 24, 2020 3:04 PM EST
    • Another Aristo #6 problem to look out for!

      The short stub end rail portion beyond the frog of this turnout is very flexible. This can result in the stub railheads not being level with the frog railheads.  I had experienced a broken piece off the pilot of a USA Trains F3 because it struck the raised stub rails.  A remedy can be had.  See the following illustrations:




      -Ted Doskaris

    • January 24, 2020 8:27 AM EST
    • No arguments with any of the information on the #6's provided, but my experience has been a lot different.


      I put down 5 Aristo #6's on my main line possibly 10 years ago or more.  I have had no real issues with 4 of the 5.  One of them has a little problem with picking points when taking the diverging route, but the straight mainline route is fine. I don't see any of the frog wear noted. I do not do roundy-round, so a mainline frog may see traffic of 4-6 cars 50-75 times per year. I'm sure the roundy-round guys put much more wear on theirs.


      I've also not noticed any issue with frog depth.  I don't run any LGB equipment. All Bachmann and Accucraft Fn3 equipment now. Had a bunch of Bachmann and Aristo 1:22-29 stuff when I first started.  I set my adjustable wheels to the G1MRA back to back.  I might have the issue, but I don't notice it and get no problems from it.


      Aristo Wide (10Ft) switches, not so much. They need a lot of help! 


    • January 24, 2020 6:24 AM EST
    • How well is your rolling stock's wheel gauge ..

      Greg what should his wheels be set @.. couldn't help to check these ..

    • January 24, 2020 12:43 AM EST
    • More

    • January 24, 2020 12:41 AM EST
    • Pictures I hope!

    • January 24, 2020 12:36 AM EST
    • Yes, sorry, my terminology is wrong and I meant the backs of the point rails where they close against the fixed rail. I looked at another switch quickly and it’s much worse as far as the width of the point rails. The guy I bought all the SS track and switches from seemed he was a little aggravated with the whole outdoor railroad he had and now I can understand why. He must have had a ton of derailments with these switches.


      i wanted to add pictures but can’t figure out how. Don’t see an add photos icon or any like that.

    • January 23, 2020 6:31 PM EST
    • I'm sure it is a typo, where you said "sanding of the swing rail aces".... what did you mean to put there? (also called point rails I think)


      Glad you are making improvements, seems that almost everything Aristo made needed some tweaking.



    • January 23, 2020 5:15 PM EST
    • Hi Ted

      i will be ordering 4 of the frog inserts as I only have 4 #6 switches. Today I did some work on one switch as a test bed for all four of them. I milled .030 off the inside lower web of both guard rails and milled each end at 10degrees to make a nice ramp on each end. I was going to mention exactly what you stated, the gauge of the swing rails is too narrow in places. I removed both and did more sanding of the swing rail aces in the needed areas and worked on the ends so now the wheelsno longer ride up on the rails. I will post pictures later. 

    • January 25, 2020 4:01 AM EST
    • The trestle is finished.

      More pictures on my blog shortly




    • January 24, 2020 7:04 AM EST
    • I was able to find the LGB kit with the A/C transformer, 3 epl drives and switch box for $60.

      I added the LGB booster and use telephone cable (read multiple wires) and run 30 feet to my epl drives.

      Never have an issue with the epl drive not working even with the added DPDT add-on accessory (I use the 1203).

      I did switch to DCC and DC control but left my RR with the Aristo 27 mhz controls for switches, why change what is working.


    • January 23, 2020 8:31 PM EST
    • Very clever, the way you did that Korm, using the pre made ties

    • January 23, 2020 7:37 PM EST
    • well, the current LGB "epl" system feeds on AC, cuts the AC waves in half, that a kind of stuttering DC reaches the switch motors.

      that gives two advantages:

      1) less cables needed

      2) less burned switch motors


      smaller LGB transformers have an AC output of 15 V, 7 VA - so that does the trick. others use up to 20 V.  the longer and the thinner your cables are, the higher the AC output should be.

      the AC goes to the pushbutton-switchbox or the reed. there it gets sorted by diodes into "forward" or "backward" halfwaves. (the switchboxes have two push-buttons for that, the reeds are sorted out by connection to the different outputs) then the cable goes to the switchmotor. (and depending on wich "half" of the AC reaches it, it turns left or right.)

      (the cable- saving comes from the fact, that behind the push-buttons or the reeds the "right" and the "left" cable can be united, so that just two cables run to the switchmotor, instead of three cables in the old system)

      this is the point, where i always recommend to read the LGB manual, chapter "taking control"

      you can read or download the .pdf from here:


      about the "gauntlet", John mentions...

      i made one once. using LGB crossings and R1 curved rails.

      (from experience, i strongly recommend, to implement some kind of control, (reeds and signal-track) to evade collisions)