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    • May 29, 2020 3:11 PM EDT
    • Sorrier, another dupe post.

       

    • May 29, 2020 3:11 PM EDT
    • Sorry, dupe post.

    • May 27, 2020 8:54 AM EDT
    • Using the word "Mutilate" is NOT a fair way of describing, PROPERLY body mounting Kadee couplers on rolling stock.  Properly mounting them on the body, can enhance the prototypical  appearance of the rolling stock.

           Only collectors should have any problem with body mounting couplers. In their minds, and the Collector Market; anything but "Original, or Pristine" appearance is acceptable.   Running and enjoying the equipment, indoors or out doesn't add to their value, in that part of the hobby. More thought is towards its market value when they die.  Will anyone care, after they pass away...I leave that to the individual....

        Fred Mills

          

       

    • May 26, 2020 10:08 PM EDT
    • I'm tired of being a patient! 

    • May 26, 2020 10:03 PM EDT
    • John:  

       

      At least for me it hasn't happened yet as I have not received the car and coupler.  Patience, patience Grasshopper!

       

      Remember those vultures - 

      Nsaney's Psychobabble: Vultures: Patience my ass - I'm gonna kill ...

       

       

    • May 26, 2020 9:59 PM EDT
    • What ever happened to; Pics or it didn't happen?

    • May 26, 2020 9:54 PM EDT
    • Pete:

       

      You're on and no charge!  Just realize that I have good days and bad days, too bad I can't predict when I'll have one of the other.

       

      p.s. shipping is extra.  

    • May 26, 2020 9:43 PM EDT
    • Ok, in that case I will send you all my cars that need to be converted,

    • May 26, 2020 8:57 PM EDT
    • Thanks Pete, but I like the look of body mounted trucks so I'm forced to mutilate.   Also, I kind of enjoy it (the mutilation part).

    • May 26, 2020 7:23 PM EDT
    • I just did my convention hopper car with truck mount s and they fit and work great ! I like the ease of use on these. No need to cut shim or mutilate the original work of the csr

    • May 26, 2020 5:43 PM EDT
    • I bought a pair of the warbird PIKO hoppers as shown on page 95 of the 2020 PIKO catalog and added Kadee body mounted Gauge 1 couplers to them.

       

      As Fred suggested the anvil end of the Kadee gauge was used to get the height needed to mount the couplers. Luckily the height was exactly that of the bottom of the frame and the detail in the center of each end of the cars.

       

      The trucks were removed and dissembled. All but 1/4 inch of the draw bars used for the redundant hook and loop couplers were removed. The trucks were reassembled and set aside to make mounting the coupler boxes to the frame easier.

       

      These particular cars had a drop in the bottom of the frame near the bolster. But the frame and the bottom of the detail in the center of the cars were a 1 inch flat space on which the coupler could be fastened.

       

      The protruding screw pocket at the back of the coupler gear boxes were sanded flush with the back of the gear box. This would minimized the amount the couplers would protrude from the cars.

       

      I assembled all the couplers and glued the top of them to the frame. Using the hole in the center of the gear boxes as a guide I drilled a 3/32nd hole in the frame. Then fastened the coupler by threaded a half inch 4-40 bolt through the frame.

       

      With the couplers in place I fastened the trucks back on the car with the 1/4 inch the drawbar nubs facing the center of the car. They couplers worked very well on the 8 foot diameter curves and PIKO switches on my switching puzzle layout.

       

    • May 23, 2020 9:48 PM EDT
    • But.........I can't let it go.  I want to rub it in. 

    • May 26, 2020 3:13 PM EDT
    • I remember seeing it. I took it off and put it in a safe place.

      ???????????????????????????????

    • May 25, 2020 4:40 PM EDT
    • Lou Luczu said:

      Oh, is that what that was?

      Yes. I think it was attached to the body and the wires (including the rear passenger section,) are still in place. A marker lamp is missing, as you can see in the photo.

    • May 25, 2020 1:44 PM EDT
    • Oh, is that what that was?

    • May 25, 2020 1:32 PM EDT
    • Lou Luczu said:

      Says you.

      I'm lucky if I can put a battery in a clock and have it work.

      Lou, I thought I left the wiring inside my original Doodlebug, some of which is in your MP-54?  Take a look and see if it might be re-usable. This pic is on page 1.

       

    • May 25, 2020 9:06 AM EDT
    • Lou - If you want to attempt it, give me a list of what the lights are (filament lamps or LED), how many, and where they are located and I'll sketch up a wiring diagram for you.  I can't teach you to solder, but you could probably get away with using crimp connectors.

       

      Also, do you want to be able to switch the lights on and off?  Do you want the lights to be on when motor is off (parked on a powered siding)?

       

      You will need to figure out which connector is the motor and which is track power.  Not hard with a simple meter:  Off the track, one connector will read infinite ohms (open circuit) - that one is the power pick up. The other will show low ohms (resistance ) and that will be the motor.  If you don't have a meter, a 9V battery and some wire will work. Motor will run, or at least jump, when connected to the battery.

    • May 24, 2020 7:45 PM EDT
    • Says you.

      I'm lucky if I can put a battery in a clock and have it work.

    • May 24, 2020 6:15 PM EDT
    • Then I guess you will be doing a bit of wiring.  you may want to consider a center off polarity switch while you are at it (like recent Annies). Handy for parking on a powered track.  If you can rustle up a connector/switch board from a battery conversion job you can save yourself a little work.  Personally; I'd just scratch build whatever I need. It's not complicated.

    • May 24, 2020 12:41 PM EDT
    • Progress Report:

       

      And these are the connectors I was talking about. Then I realized I have to figure how to get power to the headlights, inside lights, and red end lights.

       

      BTW the "Front" is to the right in above picture. The Postal End is the "Back" and needs to have the red end lights and the pantograph.