Forums Modeling Motive Power
  • Topic: HLW Waddlin' Goslin

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    • November 4, 2017 6:14 PM EDT
      • Peeples Valley, Arizona
         
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      HLW Waddlin' Goslin

      My wife and I really want one of these to use as a street car on our layout...

       

       

      Gallopin' Goose

       

       

      We have three different possibilities for power.

       

      The first is standard DC, which would require isolating the town rail loop from the main rail loop and picking up a suitable DC power set-up.

      The second is to convert it to DCC. Has anyone tried this?

      The third is to go battery power and RC. I know even less about what would be required for that than for DCC.

       

      The easiest would be going the standard DC, I suspect.

    • November 4, 2017 6:43 PM EDT
      • Saint Helena, CALIFORNIA
         
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      Even though I don't see a question here, I will offer my experience. I have one that I converted to use a RailBoss 4 with battery.  Very easy and a good runner.  There's plenty of room inside for the receiver and battery pack.  I've got the green one: HLW-09201.

    • November 4, 2017 6:50 PM EDT
      • Vail, Az
         
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      Del, the maker of the Railboss has an advanced critter control you might want to consider. It allows automated station stops that are triggered by magnets. There are random patterns or all stops. the stops and starts are easy on the gears...

       

      https://www.gscalegraphics.net/store/p14/Enhanced_Critter_Control.html

      ____________________________________

      John

       

      The older I get, the less I know, please don't make me prove it.

       

       

    • November 4, 2017 9:14 PM EDT
      • Peeples Valley, Arizona
         
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      Mark Hadler said:

      Even though I don't see a question here, I will offer my experience. I have one that I converted to use a RailBoss 4 with battery.  Very easy and a good runner.  There's plenty of room inside for the receiver and battery pack.  I've got the green one: HLW-09201.

       

       

      How does one install this into the HLW rail bus? I assume it isn't plug and play. How complicated are the wire conenctions?

    • November 4, 2017 9:27 PM EDT
      • Settle Down Boomer ,
         
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      Mark Hadler said:

      Even though I don't see a question here, I will offer my experience.

      I sorta saw a question from his post but I think your experience along with others is what he was asking for.

       

       

       

      Check out my website for factual evidence though

    • November 5, 2017 12:10 AM EDT
      • Saint Helena, CALIFORNIA
         
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      I just took it apart!  The only "trick" is that there are two brass pins on the sides that hold the roof onto the body.  I removed the pickup shoes since I'm never going to use track power.  I connected the pickup wires to the motor terminals on the RailBoss board and also connected the headlight to the board. Since there is no tail light I added led marker lights on the rear that switch on when in reverse. 

       

      Other that some electrical classes many many years ago in high school I would say I have very basic "electronic" skills and the RailBoss instructions are very detailed.  Besides, you have the "power of the internet" to ask questions regarding this type of modification.  It took about two hours total to make the modifications.  I had to ask on the forums on how to remove the roof as I did not see the pins as being anything but decorative and their actual purpose was not obvious to me.

       

      Edited to add:  I also use the battery conversion module as it makes wiring, charging and protection so much easier.

       

      No guts, no glory!  

      This post was edited by Mark Hadler at November 5, 2017 5:26 PM EST
    • November 5, 2017 5:26 PM EST
      • Peeples Valley, Arizona
         
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      Thanks.

    • November 5, 2017 7:57 PM EST
      • Peeples Valley, Arizona
         
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      This may be the wrong place to get into this - however...

       

       

      If I had a TCS G8 decoder, would it be as simple as hooking up the track leads and motor leads to the board to get the railbus to run with my current DCC?

       

      Those would be the only wires I would need to use to get it to run, without lights or sound.

      This post was edited by Daniel Collins at November 5, 2017 7:58 PM EST
    • November 13, 2017 10:38 PM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      yep DCC installation way easier than battery, less wires...

      plus leave DC mode enabled and it will run on DC also, it will automatically sense DC or DCC.. (but real dc power, not PWM)

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • November 13, 2017 11:57 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      Greg Elmassian said:

      yep DCC installation way easier than battery, less wires...

      plus leave DC mode enabled and it will run on DC also, it will automatically sense DC or DCC.. (but real dc power, not PWM)

      Greg

      Not arguing which system is better for Daniel, but how do you figure less wires?  Every non Plug-n-Play system requires at minimum 4 wires; an input power source and an output motor driver. Lights and sound would add the same number of wires depending on on-board or external sound.

      ____________________________________

      www.cvsry.com www.cvsry.com

    • November 14, 2017 4:01 PM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      charge jack adds 2 or 3 wires.... fuse for battery... removable battery needs connector... most people remove track pickup wiring when going battery... oh, antenna location... fun... volume up down switch or knob. Drill holes for programming jack, charge jack, power switch?

       

      Do you want me to go on?  I been doing this for a while... I can add DCC to a track powered loco in about the time it takes to open the shell... if you don't want constant lighting...

       

      No contest between them, especially when you start with a loco that is ALREADY wired for track power.

       

      Greg

       

       

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • November 14, 2017 6:26 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      OK, some valid points there. Antennas are no longer an issue; they are 1 inch long and tuck anywhere. On newer locos track wiring does not need to be removed and if a source of constant power is available the R/C throttle can utilize the track as a power source.  I've been doing this for a while too. I dismissed DCC many moons ago as I did not need that level of automatic control for my simple railroad.

       

      I am NOT trying to open this can of worms yet again, but it sure felt like you were.  Everyone needs to look at the available systems and choose what best fits their individual needs. For you it's DCC, for me it's battery R/C and for others it may be straight track power. No one should try and push their favorite system as best for all, because it's not.

      ____________________________________

      www.cvsry.com www.cvsry.com

    • November 14, 2017 6:40 PM EST
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      No cans of worms here, nor agenda.

       

      Attempt at clear honest, unbiased answer to the Original Poster:

       

      We have three different possibilities for power.

       

      The first is standard DC, which would require isolating the town rail loop from the main rail loop and picking up a suitable DC power set-up.

      The second is to convert it to DCC. Has anyone tried this?

      The third is to go battery power and RC. I know even less about what would be required for that than for DCC.

       

      Then, again the Original Poster says:

       

      This may be the wrong place to get into this - however...

       

      If I had a TCS G8 decoder, would it be as simple as hooking up the track leads and motor leads to the board to get the railbus to run with my current DCC?

       

      Those would be the only wires I would need to use to get it to run, without lights or sound.

       

      So now I am getting grief for answering him and agreeing with him? I'm opening a can of worms?

       

      WTF?

       

      Sorry Daniel, I guess it's politically incorrect to even agree with you.

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

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