I’m doing my first battery onboard REVO II install, and intend to tie the battery into the board at the point where the external battery wires do. Which is (+), or does it matter?
I’ve read the instructions three time, and find no mention of this. I’m guessing this means it doesn’t matter, but I don’t want to release the magic smoke.
Hi Steve, no it does not matter. The input on the Revo II is not polarity sensitive. This is the same input that track power uses. Out of habit I connect the red battery wire to the outside input screw. At least this way I always know where the positive terminals is should I need It later.
Enjoy, Don
Don, thanks for answering.
What input screw? What am I overlooking?
Looks like Don has left the house so I will add my 2 cents what Don is talking about is using the little adapter board that comes with it. Sounds like you are doing a plug and play. Sounds like your doing just fine. your putting a on off in switch right.
Richard
Richard Beverly said:
Looks like Don has left the house so I will add my 2 cents what Don is talking about is using the little adapter board that comes with it. Sounds like you are doing a plug and play. Sounds like your doing just fine. your putting a on off in switch right.
Richard
Yes, I’m using a separate on/off DPDT switch, in the form of Don’s BIK.
Do I need to use that adapter board? Isn’t that for non plug’n’play?
Steve, what loco? It sounds like you are using one with a socket.
Here’s a revo with the heat sink off. 4 of the “bugs” do the motor control, and the other 4 are a full wave bridge, which allows power in any polarity to the “track” inputs. The track inputs are pins 1&2 and 12&11 (2 pins for each “rail” so to handle more current).
I’m working with my SD45s, both with Navin’s new boards. Trying to get onboard batteries.
So where are you connecting the battery to? are you using one of the “mu” connectors that stick out of the ends?
Greg
No, my idea is to solder the power into the board where the “mu” leads are soldered. I can’t think of a better spot.
Steve Don was just using that as a example. What you are doing is just fine. I have done the same and had good luck. I mount the switch by the other switches and put a connector between the switch and were you are soldering the wires on. Just make sure you are not back feeding power to rails I know this is a new board but just to check.
Richard
Richard, thanks for the heads up on checking the back feed. The new SD45 board from Navin has the track/battery switch wired backwards. Why the Chinese decided to do that is unknown. They may have screwed up elsewhere.
Steve check where the main plug goes to the frame I found one with wires switched that go to that switch. I just pulled wires out of the connector and put right all was good. did you use the frame wire all so from Navin?
Richard
Richard Beverly said:
Steve check where the main plug goes to the frame I found one with wires switched that go to that switch. I just pulled wires out of the connector and put right all was good. did you use the frame wire all so from Navin?
Richard
Richard, I’m sure this is clear to you, but, forgive me, I don’t have a clue what you are talking about ( Insert clueless emoticon here ).
Ok Sorry Steve 2 sets of wires come from the main board the one you just replaced one set has 6 wires and the other has 7 wires. both sets plug into the wires in the frame. What i was talking about was the set of 7 wires. those wires should be all in line with the wires on the main board the end wire should be the end wire on the plug and so on. I had one that was crossed and things did not work right. All I had to do was straighten them out. This set of wires are the power the other set is lights. My last question was if you changed the wires in the frame. Hope this is a little clearer.
Richard
interesting, the battery / track switch cannot be wired any different, since it is connected directly to the pcb… all you can have is a different pcb…
I’ll be publishing my wiring nightmare with my SD45 soon.
I’d wire the battery in, and then test to see if there is a switch position that does not put power to the wheels before I’d start cutting / unplugging…
Greg
It is a complete new design, Greg. It only has a passing resemblance to the old board.
The wiring is fine, Richard. Thanks for all your help. There are those who question whether I should be trusted with the operation of a light switch, so I proceed slowly, triple checking each step.
Steve sounds good you don’t want it to cost more than it all ready has. As far as the switch goes it is all good they just changed it with the new design. I do have to ask, you did bolt the regulator to the frame or one of the bolts that hold a weight on?
Richard
Richard Beverly said:
Steve sounds good you don’t want it to cost more than it all ready has. As far as the switch goes it is all good they just changed it with the new design. I do have to ask, you did bolt the regulator to the frame or one of the bolts that hold a weight on?
Richard
I did, indeed. What is that for?
Steve its the voltage regulator for the lights by bolting it to the frame, the frame acts as a heat sink. With 18.5 volts i’m sure it will get a little warm. I also believe it takes the place of that board that is bent up at the end of the old main board.
Richard