Forums Modeling Annual Build Challenge
  • Topic: Mik 2016 Buld Log - Daktah John - CVSRy

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    • January 20, 2016 10:15 PM EST
      • Waverly, Alabama
         
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      One way to cut the cove is to add an angled fence to your table saw and run the block of wood over the blade at an angle.  There are several videos on youtube that show this method.  Most of the videos however are demonstrating using larger pieces of wood.  I am not sure if you can lower the blade far enough on a 10" saw to limit the width of the cove and still obtain the needed depth.  I've done the larger pieces this way, but not scale lumber.  I will try a small piece next time I'm in the shop.

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    • January 20, 2016 11:55 PM EST
      • Post Falls, Idaho
         
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      John,

       

      I don't know where you are budget wise or if the dimension would be right but those braces look like crown molding. Something like this from Home depot

       

      You could just slice it off for each brace. They generally sell the stuff by the foot and all kinds of profiles. Of course making it is more fun.

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    • January 21, 2016 7:06 AM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      Devon - Looking at the profile drawing alone last night I came to the same conclusion.  I'll be looking at the cove mouldings available locally. I have two local yards that specialize in millwork plus Home Depot and Lowes. Someone should have something close enough. I'd only need a few feet.

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    • January 21, 2016 8:13 AM EST
      • Phippsburg, Maine
         
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      See if you can find some of that plastic lumber crown molding... I think real wood would just split apart with the grain going the wrong way.   Otherwise,  you could use a half round file on a stack of strips clamped in a vise or nailed together. 

    • January 21, 2016 9:14 AM EST
      • Post Falls, Idaho
         
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      That's a good point Eric. Regular wood could be an issue. The PVC (or what ever its made out of) would be the ticket.

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    • January 21, 2016 2:53 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      If nothing else, theses builds teach me all kinds of stuff.  I wouldn't even have considered the grain direction. I'd rather not use PVC moulding. For starters it's crazy expensive and depending how it turns out, I may be staining and clear coating the wood rather than painting - at least I want that option.

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    • January 21, 2016 3:31 PM EST
      • Phippsburg, Maine
         
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      I agree with the dislike of the plastic stuff.   Considering the cost,  you only need a foot or two tops and if you really can buy it by the foot it should be cheap enough,  but if you have to buy an 8 foot length it is kinda pricey. 

    • January 21, 2016 5:45 PM EST
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      I used wood molding to get the detail on my station. Yes the grain is running the wrong way, but I was painting mine so it didn't matter. With a sharp blade in the hobby table saw, and working slowly, I made quite a few of them from the molding. Yes, a few split, but I had enough stock that the few I lost weren't missed.

       

      I do not know how well they would have taken stain, since the grain is all wrong in them.

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      Shannon car Shops
      Home of the infamous leg lamp

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      and King Butt Modeler

    • January 21, 2016 5:48 PM EST
      • Pinon Hills, California
         
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      I really like what you are building. I'm glad you didn't get any major problems with the power outage.

      I need to get busy on my outhouse. The "visitors" to Mik's are running out of corners to use in Dirty and Dusty.

    • January 21, 2016 7:39 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      I might just have to give it a try anyway. One of the local yards stocks this in clear pine. Size is within a 16th of what I drew...

      Not exactly the prototype shape, but close enough.

      This post was edited by Jon Radder at January 21, 2016 7:40 PM EST
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    • January 21, 2016 10:06 PM EST
      • Post Falls, Idaho
         
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      Hope it works out; I like the profile.

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    • January 23, 2016 4:19 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      No lumber yard trip this weekend - hiding from the big blizzard - but I am getting much closer to cutting lumber. I've been working up detailed plans which I will post later. One decision I need to make is how many uprights. In the prototype picture below, if you count the rafters and assume they are on 16" centers, the uprights look to be set at 18 foot centers. After working up a site plan of my location I determined that my shelter will be 25 feet long. Using the prototype, I could stretch the separation 6" and get use only two uprights, but I think it will look too light. If I go with 3 they will be on 9' 2.5" centers. I'll try and do an elevation drawing to check the look, but I'm interested in hearing opinions. Imagine cutting the center section out of the picture, then adding a post in the center...

       

       

      BTW, I am working with dimensions guessed from photographs. I've not been able to visit the prototype in daylight due to time conflicts like work and family. If my extrapolated dimensions are close, then I will be sizing the structure down just a little to stay within the proportions of the existing station building - so I'll be making it smaller with more support. Sounds about right for my style

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    • January 23, 2016 4:57 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      Here is the plan so far.  In order to determine the footprint of the new shelter, I needed to size it to fit. No better way to do that then to develop a site plan...

       

      As designed, the back side of the roof will overhang the rock outcrop, but that's OK.

       

      From the basic shape on the Site Plan, I developed a Framing Plan for the support timbers...

      And finally, with the updated dimensions I adjusted the End Elevation...

      Next I need to develop a side view elevation that I can confirm fit with. Once that is done, cutting can begin.

      This post was edited by Jon Radder at January 23, 2016 7:01 PM EST
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    • January 23, 2016 6:26 PM EST
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      Assuming the rafters are on 16 inch centers....A simple pacing off the real structure would answer many questions, but, you are making the model to fit your needs so....

       

      I am so tempted to save your great plans drawing in my plans folder for future use by the P&CS crews.

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      Shannon car Shops
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      I.A.R.R.R. Member #12

      and King Butt Modeler

    • January 23, 2016 6:30 PM EST
      • Not one of the WannaBe's,
         
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      Jon, if you stay with the 4 sided support post as in the pic use two post with long spacing. If you go with three support post make them 2 sided and you can go tighter together.

       

    • January 23, 2016 7:10 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      While you were all thinking about this and making suggestions, I spent the remainder of the afternoon drawing a side elevation with three uprights...

       

      So far, I am staying with 4 diagonals per post. As Dave "Hollywood" Marconi suggested, that might make the structure a little busy. What I just thought of was using three on each end and 4 in the middle. Where this will be located on the railroad you would need to stoop down to see under the roof, so where the diagonals are tight won't be readily visible - you will see the bottom half of them.

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    • January 23, 2016 7:15 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      David Maynard said:

      Assuming the rafters are on 16 inch centers....A simple pacing off the real structure would answer many questions, but, you are making the model to fit your needs so....

       

      I am so tempted to save your great plans drawing in my plans folder for future use by the P&CS crews.

      Yes - I really do want to go back there. It is very close, but getting there in the daylight has been a challenge. Tomorrow is looking good, but I doubt the parking lot and sidewalks will be cleared out. I might have to tramp through 6" of snow. I feel bad for those who got hammered this weekend, but sure glad I don't need to deal with it.

       

      Re the plans -  Once they are finalized I'll be happy to email you full size PDF. These are significatnly shrunk. The originals are actual size - Drawn at 15mm = 1in which shows up as 1:20.32 in the scale block

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    • January 23, 2016 8:33 PM EST

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      I can't stay on top of all these builds ...John if it is legal I have what you need and can ship it but the shipping would be a $5 USPS box and factor in on the overall price restriction. E-mail me if it's do able.

      Besides Hollywood don't like the "busy" look but I sure as hell do.

    • January 23, 2016 8:40 PM EST
      • Candlewood Valley, Connecticut
         
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      Thanks Roos!  So far I've spent $0, so I'm well within budget.  I'll shoot you an email; send me a picture back of what you have.

       

      EDIT to add: Marilyn agrees with David that three is too many, but when I proposed the 3-4-3 arrangement she liked that. I'm going to draw that next.

      This post was edited by Jon Radder at January 23, 2016 8:42 PM EST
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