Forums » Electronics

List of newest posts

    • January 22, 2020 5:50 PM EST
    • Good afternoon everyone :

      I'm hoping I can get some wiring help. I want to install motor units on my piko switches . I made my own control panel with momentary toggle switches to control them. I found wiring diagrams that help me but I keep seeing references to "real diodes " . Can someone tell me what size I need and how to install them . I have a USA TRAINS train power 10 and I don't know if that makes a difference. Also, where I can get them. I'm new to the hobby and you guy's have already helped me twice and I'm hoping you will do it again. Another diagram would be really helpful too.

      Thank's

      Bob      

    • January 22, 2020 5:50 PM EST
    • Good afternoon everyone :

      I'm hoping I can get some wiring help. I want to install motor units on my piko switches . I made my own control panel with momentary toggle switches to control them. I found wiring diagrams that help me but I keep seeing references to "real diodes " . Can someone tell me what size I need and how to install them . I have a USA TRAINS train power 10 and I don't know if that makes a difference. Also, where I can get them. I'm new to the hobby and you guy's have already helped me twice and I'm hoping you will do it again. Another diagram would be really helpful too.

      Thank's

      Bob      

    • January 21, 2020 8:41 AM EST
    • For ESU 5 XL Decoder Experts - I'm installing my first ESU 5 XL into a person's LGB 2018D Mogul which is complete.  I've also installed an LED in the headlight and a Massoth Firebox Flickering Light Module.  Now I want to install a Massoth DCC Pulsed Smoke Unit.  I can't tell from reading the 5 XL Instruction Manual how to set up a pulse output that's pulses in sync with the locomotive's speed/chuff rate.  Can someone advise where to connect the two wires from the Massoth unit and the other adjustments needed on the 5 XL?

      I've installed several Massoth DCC Pulsed Smokers onto Massoth DCC Decoders.  If you're not familiar with the Massoth Pulsed Smokers, there are two ways for it to receive pulsed inputs:  From a DCC decoder, or, from a hall sensor.  If the 5 XL can't produce a pulse input to the smoker, I'll have to then install a hall sensor unit into the Mogul.

      Thanks

      Tom

       

    • January 19, 2020 1:33 PM EST
    • For those interested, that cigar was 18" long, took 4 hours to smoke.

       

      It is a Puros Indios cigar, the "model" is the "Chief"

       

    • January 19, 2020 12:36 PM EST
    • True but I think you will find that no 2 LED's even by same manufacture are the same, the 1 that requires the lesser voltage will burn brighter as it will hog the current flow.

    • January 18, 2020 5:12 PM EST
    • Devon, putting the LEDs in parallel, should not diminish the brightness, but it will reduce the length of time the battery will power the LEDs.

       

      The solar cell can only put out so much voltage, and so much current. So putting too large of a battery, or battery combination, on one solar cell, will assure that the battery(s) don't ever become fully charged.

       

      Torches are good, but I use my soldering iron to do all kinds of soldering. And I have a solder gun for the larger solder jobs.

    • January 18, 2020 1:52 PM EST
    •  

      I have a pal who is Polish, and he used to bring a selection of obscure Polish cigars back when he visited Poland.  [That was the 1970s when we all smoked.]  Some were almost as big as that.  Others were twisted together as a threesome, so to smoke one it was like a convoluted screw.

    • January 18, 2020 10:19 AM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

       

       

       

      Cigars? Now you are talking!

      Dang can you even get a good draw on that thing??? it looks like it would take a couple of months to finish that thing! Wonder if it worth whatever it cost, as far as flavor and taste after a while.

       

    • January 18, 2020 3:28 AM EST
    • I have and use both a micro torch and an iron, depending on the job at hand. I prefer the torch because it’s instant heat and I can see it. It does, however, heat up any surrounding components much more than the iron. I use the iron when I need heat concentrated at a specific point like on circuit boards. With all that said, Pete, unless you are planning on doing a lot of board soldering, I would follow Devon’s suggestion And get a micro torch. They are not all that expensive but the learning curve is a little steeper than an iron. 

    • January 18, 2020 2:45 AM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Don't worry about wearing out the LEDs, they will outlast both of us. I will live forever.

       

      The battery can wear, but they self-discharge if not used, so not sure how helpful switch is. Me either, I said I am winging it. Just "seemed" like a good idea, I have no idea if I am right in my thinking (probably not, I have a brain cloud) but I wired it so that its solar cell, battery, switch, LEDs. I would think that since the switch is after the battery and solar cell that the battery would stay charged just like it would normally. As it discharges then the solar cell will charge it.

       

      Micro torch with soldering tip, or are you using the flame? Can't solder very cleanly on a circuit board with a flame

       

       

       

      Now as for the torch. Its not the end all. I wouldn't try and solder on a board with it o a regular basis, although I just found out today how to do it. If you take a piece of wire and heavily tin it (put a big blob of solder on it) and then apply that to the board and heat the wire with the torch away from the board it solders very cleanly. I do have a tip for mine, have no idea where I put it. I don't do any board soldering unless I screw up an existing one (thats what I did today). So that's not an issue for me. I love the flame when it comes to soldering stuff I am not worried about burning up. I get very quick and decent results with it. I think like any tools when you learn a few tricks it can be a great thing.

       

      Maybe not everyone ones cup of tea but you'd be hard pressed to get me to give mine up.

    • January 17, 2020 10:52 PM EST
    • Don't worry about wearing out the LEDs, they will outlast both of us.

       

      The battery can wear, but they self-discharge if not used, so not sure how helpful switch is.

       

      Micro torch with soldering tip, or are you using the flame? Can't solder very cleanly on a circuit board with a flame

       

       

      Cigars? Now you are talking!

    • January 17, 2020 9:36 PM EST
    • Pete Lassen said:

       and a soldering iron

      Don't buy a soldering iron. Buy a micro torch. way more uses. I have two soldering irons and now they are wood burners. I aso now have two Benzomatic micro torches and love them, You can solder with them, burn shit with them, and light cigars with them.

       

      torch

    • January 17, 2020 9:31 PM EST
    • Bill Barnwell said:

       but was wondering why the switch?

      The only reason is I don't see me doing a tremendous amount of night time running. And my layout is tucked away in a not very visible part of my yard. Bottom line 90% of the time no one will see it so why have it lighted (is that a word) up.  So the thought behind the switch is just ot add longevity to the LEDs and battery. Only work them when they are needed. Maybe pointless. I don't know, I am winging it.

    • January 17, 2020 7:47 PM EST
    • let it run until the battery gives up or the lights stop working to let us know how it all works. I am going to try something like this as soon as I get some supplies, and a soldering iron

    • January 17, 2020 5:20 PM EST
    • Devon, thanks for the up date I've never added more than 2 LED's extra to the circuit but if the battery has enough capacity it should work never mind how many but was wondering why the switch? thanks Bill 

    • January 17, 2020 2:11 PM EST
    • Okay so after ruining my first solar path light I went to the dollar store and got another. Its a little different beast than the Walmart one. For one it has a bigger battery and also a larger solar cell. I was able to get it all apart without ruining it. I cut off the stock LED since I am remote mounting the working bits. I soldered on longer leads and attached a single warm white LED. That worked. So then I got brave and cut each of those leads and wired in a single pico LED in parallel. It worked without much of any diminished brightness. I got even more brave and wired in a second pico in parallel and it worked, again without much of any diminished brightness. And finally got seriously brave and cut the positive lead before the first LED and wired in a switch. Holy #^%%^$& it worked!!!!

       

      If there is any real diminished brightness I can't tell enough to care and it will serve it purpose.

    • January 15, 2020 5:46 PM EST
    • I hope you are asking the someone else. Cuz i don't know

       

    • January 15, 2020 5:41 PM EST
    • Side track Question: How many micros equal one solar LED?

      Thanks

    • January 15, 2020 3:02 PM EST
    • Thanks Bill, Greg, and all.

       

      I think I messed up the one I had. I broke the wires off of the solar cell and also of the little board. At any rate I am scraping all the pieces off the old one and going and buying another one and starting over. The solar cell I have was puting out voltage but now in direct sunlight I am getting nothing. I will set it aside for later.

       

      I am going to get another one and just start small an learn and experiment as I go. If I can get it to all be remotely located like I want and work one LED with the stock components I will call it good for the MIK. Then I can play with adding other batteries and other LEDS at another time.