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February 8, 2010 12:25:27 MST
Okay what to you operations type guys do? Planning my RR and thinking of different methods of controlling switches and uncoupling cars. Do some of you throw swiches manual and use the ol' flat screwdriver trick to uncouple? Or go the other way with remote electric switches and Kadee uncoupling? Just wondering what the consensus is, without opening a can of worms. Randy |
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February 8, 2010 12:42:14 MST
I use all manual switch stands. I follow along the train, so throwing the switch by hand is no big deal. It also gives me a chance to make sure that nothing is keeping it from switching right. I use AMS/Accucraft couplers. That can be uncoupled by using the lift bars I've installed, or by pressing up from underneath. When I couple, I also hook up the air hoses. I'm in the minority.  Control of the train is via RCS.  |
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February 8, 2010 13:28:15 MST
All 53 outside turnouts are manual, all Tenmille ground throwsl. Inside there are 3 electric controlled turnouts that are just to hard to reach. The other 20 something are manual, mostly Tenmille ground throws. We use a screwdriver for uncoupling. Last edited by Ric Golding (February 8, 2010 13:30:11 MST)  |
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February 8, 2010 13:42:52 MST
I use all manual switches with Tenmille ground throws and follow the trains. Since I'm on benchwork at a nominal 40" height I uncouple my Kadees using popsickle sticks sanded to a blade on their ends. Cheap, easy and no worry if someone walks off with one in their pocket. One friend that had a ground level RR used long dowels with a flattened blade on the end so he didn't have to stoop over to uncouple. He used Tenmille ground throws for the switches.  |
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February 8, 2010 18:16:50 MST
Take Randy's question a step further; I won't have easy access to any of the switches on my new outside layout so I need remote control of those switches. What is the most reasonablely priced option that works. Life Motto; “Live like it’s the last year of your life, but have a plan in case it isn’t.” |
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February 8, 2010 20:12:27 MST
The most reliable would be an air system. Look at EZ-Air. LSC Member Greg Elmassian has a write-up on his website - I couldn't find an "official" website.  |
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February 8, 2010 21:08:51 MST
If you're interested in the ez-air stuff, I have a TON of it (hose, switches, actuators) that Im willing to part with.  |
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February 8, 2010 22:21:10 MST
Bob, I am interested... since C&OCRY seems to be out of business... can you email me a list of what you have to offer? Thanks, Greg greg@elmassian.com Visit my web site, lots of tips and a search function to make it easy: http://www.elmassian.com |
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February 9, 2010 07:10:16 MST
Is C&OCRY out of business? TOC isn't that the guy you deal with? Last edited by Ric Golding (February 9, 2010 07:10:44 MST) |
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February 9, 2010 09:39:49 MST
I use tall switch stands like those Bruce showed how to make on his site. I also use Caboose Hobbies HO ground throws. They work great, have enough throw and look pretty scale like in 1:20 or even 1:24 scale. Caveat-my layout is an indoor layout. Dave |
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February 9, 2010 10:51:13 MST
He got a real job until the economy improves. Working the train stuff part time until then. http://www.cocry.com/ I once remarked to my pastor that I would rather be cremated. After a pregnant pause, he retorted, "I wouldn't worry about it, had I your history."  |
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February 9, 2010 17:45:41 MST
Lots of interest in the air stuff. Good to know its wanted! |
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February 10, 2010 00:26:07 MST
I can still bend over and throw the lever. 
I once remarked to my pastor that I would rather be cremated. After a pregnant pause, he retorted, "I wouldn't worry about it, had I your history." |
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February 10, 2010 07:24:01 MST
We use "Barrel Bolt" ground throws.........for hard to reach places we use choke cables. We also use an actual real life high level switch stand to throw a switch. most of this is covered on our web page at: www.ovgrs.org/ Fr.Fred |
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February 12, 2010 15:51:20 MST
I am a fan of the LGB switch machine, #12010. Nearly 50 switches, all outdoors, mostly Aristo wide-radius and some #6. Several are coupled pairs. I use the LGB power booster to ensure reliability when throwing the switch. Only one problem, to date, when ants decided to take up residence in one mechanism. A quick hose out and the machine was operating again. After several years outdoors the electrics have proven very reliable. I run an elevated road (24 inches high), so do not suffer the problems associated with ground level operation. Uncoupling is carried out with either a bent piece of brass rod or a spatula (cake stirrer) taken from the kitchen. Oracle of Oz |
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