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November 11, 2009 10:55:52 MST
Ric convinced me that a forum was a better place to start this. I can show my work and answer questions better. Later, I'll finish the article so it's more easily found. Today I stared with the wood sheathing. I "goofed" up to start with. I did the sides first, where I should have done the ends. The ends are really sandwiched between the sides and it's easy if you start there. Then you can just sand each end flush with the side and you're ready to go. I had to do a bit more cutting and fitting. Anyway, to answer Bart's question, I'm using siding I got from Micro Mark. (http://www.micromark.com/SCRIBED-SHEATH … ,7244.html). It's a lot cheaper and much thinner than the siding from Ozark Miniatures. It also is scribed the wrong way, so you have to do some more cutting. But, this is why the acrylic frame is so nice - it provides a LOT of strength to the car. I cut the siding to the height of each side, allowing for a little extra. I glued each piece flush against the top end, leaving the extra at the bottom. Later, when the glue is dried I sand it flush with the bottom, creating a nice smooth and straight line.   The end piece is also straight across. I glued two pieces in place on the end and cut the angles after the glue dried, again sanding it flush with the roof line.  The reason I'm not too concerned with the fit and finish at the roof line is that this will be covered by the trim board. It's starting to look like one of the AMS boxcars.  I think this is the neat part about these "kits". I can easily decide what I want it to look like. For instance, I'm not sure right now if I'll add the end doors like the AMS car. Also, I may decide to go with ladders at each end instead of grab irons. We'll see.  |
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November 11, 2009 16:38:44 MST
Grooovy.......I got a batch of that siding pending too......   |
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November 11, 2009 16:41:05 MST
I cut some end trim pieces from some excess 1/16" sheathing, as I couldn't find anything else wide enough in my scrap box. After the glue dried, I sanded it down level to the roof.  I added the side trim and sanded it down where it met the end fascia. Next, I cut the end sheathing to reveal the slots I cut earlier for the couplers. Once again, I verified that my couplers will be at the correct height.  I've got some styrene sheet that I plan to use for the roof. Then I'll have to root around in the scrap box to see what details I can conjure. |
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November 11, 2009 17:31:59 MST
I'll preface my comment with the admission that I still have 4 of Bob's EBT kits as parts in box. I also have a pair of those composite car ends that Bob cast sever years ago. I'm thinking that this acrylic kit might be a perfect foundation to build the composite box car from. What is the width and height measurements at the ends of Ande`s car kit after assembly? OI know I'm about two steps to late with this question, but we can subtract the average thickness of the siding.  |
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November 11, 2009 18:05:33 MST
Bruce, what are you using for cement to attach the wood to the plastic?? Paul Bureaucracy is the art of getting nothing done .... very slowly! |
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November 11, 2009 19:16:23 MST
A good Jedi Knight (Ret.) always follows and listens to the pelicans . 
Supervising Custodian  |
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November 11, 2009 19:57:22 MST
Jon, It looks pretty close for both width and height. I just went and put the ends and the siding up against one of the cast pieces. The cast piece is about 1/16" wider than that - so you'd need to go with 1/32" thick siding to make it flush. The roof angle is a bit off as well. Paul, I used Welder contact cement (I still have a tube left). You could also try the 3M Emblem Adhesive; I've had good luck with that, but it's a bit more expensive and comes in a smaller tube! Last edited by Bruce Chandler (November 11, 2009 19:59:04 MST) |
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November 12, 2009 01:07:53 MST
Wow, how heavy will this car be when it's done? 1/4" thick acrylic for the inner structure seems very heavy. I like the idea though. Jon. |
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November 12, 2009 01:54:11 MST
Wow Bruce, that is coming together fast. Your work is super. Rodney |
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November 12, 2009 08:37:09 MST
I had a qty of the 7/32 thick stuff so that was what I used. Its much more sturdy than the 1/8 stuff and doesn't flex like it either. No added weight needed for track stability! Also allows for scribing to be done without any significant loss of strength. Andre` I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a-hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them. |
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November 12, 2009 10:39:36 MST
Yep, sorry about the confusion I caused in chat last night. The acrylic is definitely 7/32" thick. If you're wanting to use Bob's composite ends, they should work with minor modification.  The angle of the roof is different, but the sides are the same height. The acrylic fits INSIDE the side pieces, while the composite end covers them. You'd still have to use the acrylic to make the roof pieces fit, but then the roof supports wouldn't be right. If I were going to build one, I'd probably just glue the composite end in place over the acrylic end and then just file the composite end to the correct angle. Then everything will fit just right. The resin is a lot easier to file or sand than the acrylic! You will have to use thinner sheathing. I'm using 1/16", but you should think about using 1/32". You can get it from Northeastern Scale Lumber - http://northeasternscalelumber.com/osc/ … ts_id=198. Last edited by Bruce Chandler (November 12, 2009 11:11:16 MST) |
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November 12, 2009 14:47:34 MST
Thanks for the measurements and the sheathing source Bruce. This may be my winter project if I can get the tank done. |
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November 13, 2009 17:35:25 MST
Got some more work done today. Added the roof - .060 styrene.  Then added some carlines - most are .060" x .250". The end pieces are cut to .375" wide.  I'm modeling a steel framed car, so there are no truss rods. I decided to add a beam and some side angles based upon some cars I saw in the museum.  Also got a door done. It's cut from the same material as the siding. I put some rivets in the plastic strips and glued them in place. I used Ozark Miniatures "Boxcar door, guide rails & stops". Though I'm not sure what scale the guide rail is, as it isn't much longer than the door. So, I used a piece of styrene for the top part. The doors are glued in place.  I drilled and tapped 2-56 holes to hold the couplers and bolted them in place. I had obtained some poling pockets from Rodney this past weekend at Ric's and decided to give them a try.  |
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November 13, 2009 17:49:53 MST
I like those poling pockets. Who is the source ? |
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November 13, 2009 18:02:20 MST
Jon, Rodney Edington made them. He does very nice work. I'm not sure what his plans are. |
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